[TR] Big Four Mountain - Dry Creek Ice Climbing 12/13/2009

[psychobikere]

Trip: Big Four Mountain - Dry Creek Ice Climbing

 

Date: 12/13/2009

 

Trip Report:

 

After spending Friday ice cragging in the Gorge near Portland, my friend Forrest and I decided to flee the coming ice storms and head up to Big Four mountain. The recent TR from there was really motivating, so we decided to go check out the north face for ourselves. The plan was to head up through the Dry Creek drainage to access the upper north face. We got a too late start however on Sunday morning, and found ourselves at the base of Dry Creek at dawn. After scoping out a few lines, we decided on the obvious large ice flow to the left.

 

 

 

The pictures are very foreshortened. Due to the late time in the day and the coming snow, we decided to forgo the summit and follow the ice as far is it would take us. We found mostly wet ice, with quite a bit of running water behind it. There were quite a few thin sections, but mainly good sticks. The ice was soft enough in most spots to make screws seem like more of a formality than anything. We ended up climbing 7 or 8 pitches with some simulclimbing on moderate terrain up high. The first few pitches were the steepest. This is only my 3rd season ice climbing, and my first outside of New Hampshire, but I would put the grade somewhere around WI3/4. Teh snow began in the late morning as flurries, and came down heavier throughout the day. I can't say enough about how beautiful it was. We downclimbed most of the route, and made two 60m raps at the end. The climb was a great consolation prize for not being able to go for the north face. We both walked away (in the dark through waaayy too much alder) feeling super stoked, and wanting more. This was the first time I have ever climbed a big ice line without any prior knowledge of the route. It was a great experience for both of us, and left us wondering more about it. Does anyone know how often it comes in? Grades? I know the mountain is in great condition right now, but I'm sure many have come before us. There were also at least 4 or 5 other very obvious lines which looked super fun, also in the WI4 range. None seemed to be as long and sustained however as the one we chose. Sorry I don't have more pictures, but Forrest was making use of a digital video camera rented from OSU, so hopefully we can post some of that up once he gets it downloaded.

 

Gear Notes:

8 screws, picket

 

Approach Notes:

Tightrope as many downed trees as possible.

[mountainsloth]

wow, good idea! I was up there 3 weeks ago in the rain. I am surprised I didn't think if it! Nice work!

[TurinTheLost]

I tried to get the video on my computer and I don't have the right connections. So it might be a few weeks before I can use the Schools computers to get the video up.

[montypiton]

thanks for the report. looks like a great line.

[psychobikere]

No one knows how often this climb comes in? It could be the most popular climb around, or unclimbed, and I wouldn't know the difference. I'm new to the area...

[TurinTheLost]

Here is the video I threw together.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xr9nVfn5BC8

 

-Forrest

[TurinTheLost]

Oops link doesn't work HERE is the video.