Another 2010 BD Fusion Field Report

[Bob Loomis]

Dear Fellow Climbers,

 

I recently had the chance to purchase and field test the new 2010 BD Fusions. The field testing included my partner trying the tools. We had between us four other pairs of tools. In some instances it was side by side testing (Fusion in one hand, brand X in the other hand), in other instances it was climbing a pitch with Fusions and then re-climbing the pitch with brand X tools. Here are my preliminary impressions:

 

1. Aesthetics—BD has produces a clean elegant tool, no useless “bells and whistles,” just a nice clean look to the tool.

 

2. Balance—the tool is very well balances—one its strong points for sure.

 

3. Swing—not the smooth swing of say a carpenter’s hammer, but more of a chopping motion—a bit of a change—more like dropping the tool with wrist action than swinging it.

 

4. Stability of Placement—very stable and secure placements—another strong point for the tool—no wobble--once placed in the ice the tool really conveys a sense of stability and security—not the sense that as one pulls up on the tool it is going to come out in your face.

 

5. Ease of Removal—possibly the best feature of the tool—my other tool is the BD Cobra—which can be a challenge to remove from a placement. The Fusion lifts out of its placement like a charm—virtually not effort. After a day of climbing with the tool it got stuck perhaps twice, whereas with the Cobra under same conditions the stuck tool phenomena would have been say 20-30 times—which means much less pumping out to deal with when using the Fusions.

 

6. Rust—since the head and bolt are made of stainless steel the rust progression will be slower, which should mean that swapping out broken, bent picks in the future should be slightly easier (less chance of a frozen rusted bolt to deal with). But stainless steel with rust, it just takes more time.

 

7. Value Proposition—with BD Cobras now some $50.00 per tool more expensive, the price for performance proposition for the consumer is very good—one gets a lot of tool for the money.

 

8. Pick--“T” Pick is standard, thus less chance of breakage. But this “T” pick is not the old BD “T” pick—it is cut smoother—not quite ready to climb on out of the box, but much less filing needed prior to first use. A nice improvement by BD.

 

I do not necessarily think this tool is a “game changer” but it is a very good tool, and does legitimately advance the “state of the art.” Others have already commented on how BD took the criticisms leveled at the Petzel Nomic, and made improvements, so no need to restate those. I view this tool as a real challenge to the other manufacturers, and it will likely be a few years before they respond (field testing prototypes takes time, then the whole tool and dye process). My criticisms are few:

 

1. Top Stein Pull Teeth—I do virtually no mixed climbing, so these teeth mean almost nothing for me. If one is planning to only ice climb with these tools, the stein pull teeth did hold up removing the tool from its placement once or twice (tight pockets, between tight ice drips, etc). I plan to file these teeth down a bit—not remove them entirely, just make them a little less aggressive, especially up the pick’s length where they would be less useful in any case.

 

2. Grip inserts—the tool comes with one set of grip extension inserts, so for a pair of tools one gets two sets. The cost of these inserts is pennies, and so BD is being a little cheap by not including one more set for each tool. For climbers with big hands, or who climb in very cold conditions and will be wearing several glove layers, the grips will be too small even with all the inserts provided by BD.

 

Other than these two criticisms I could not find anything else to comment on. I am sure that after a full season with the tools other points may come out. But in the meantime I hope these early observations help.

 

Cheers and safe climbing to all,

 

Bob Loomis, Spokane, Washington

 

[Bob Loomis]

Dear Fellow Climbers,

 

After another day of climbing with the 2010 Fusion I have a few more comments.

 

1. Clearance--very good, if not excellent. For instance there were a few times when I reached around behind a pillar to get a good stick, and the tool's clearance made that maneuver so much easier. Reaching over bulges was likewise much easier as compared to the Cobra (my other tool).

 

2. Angle of Ice--this tool is not optimal if one is climbing lower angle (say 70 degrees or less) ice--it tends to bounce out of the ice unless the swing is finessed). On the other hand with a bit of practice (perfecting the swing) this tool comes into its own in vertical terrain--very solid stable sticks that come out easy. Thought I have not used the tool in this way I would imagine that the tool would be even better in overhanging mixed terrain.

 

Versatility--with the hole in the head BD gives the user options, such as clipping or leashing to the head in a traditional mountaineering way (very unlikely use, but none-the-less an option)for traditional mountaineering uses. Also one could (for example) put BD Android leashes on this tool and thus adopt the tool for leashed or leashless technical use, something I am likely to do just to give myself the choice if I want it.

 

I continue to find little in the way of criticism about this tool. A very good performer.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob Loomis, Spokane, Washington

[cbcbd]

Hey Bob, thanks for the review. Interesting reading your comments on since some sound extremely familiar to me as a Nomic user. The top stein pull teeth on my Nomics have been filled down for the same reason - getting stuck when cleaning under bulgy ice. And since both tools have almost the same exact angles I also find that 2. Angle of ice, is exactly the same way with the Nomics - just stellar on steep swings, but hard to get a good stick on lower angled ice with the same swing.

 

Enjoy the ice!

[Dane]

Hey Bob, good review.

 

Just wanted to let you know I got 3 pair, 6 total grip inserts with my tools. Any more (four will fit, five won't) and I suspect you'll be short on threads for a full strength clip in. I found the grip best used as small as you can make it and still get a glove into it. More like a jam and less strength required leashless if you run a small grip.

 

I wear an XL glove and find the single spacer works best for me with my "canadian ice" gloves. A lwt OR glove, but can't remember the model right off. A second spacer is more comfortable but not as secure.

 

You might want to try swinging from the upper grip for easy angle ice and see if that makes any difference if you haven't already. I find it fast and effective.

 

Also worth checking out the newest BD T rated and Lazer picks. Big difference this year on strength and how they clean and place.

 

Here is a look at the difference on the new bottom teeth. Newest Fusion T rated pick on top. Newest Laser is on the bottom.

[Bob Loomis]

Hi Dane,

 

Thanks for your kind comments. One thing you are most definitely doing for the ice climbing community is advancing the technical discussion and encouraging people not to be afraid about modifiying the tools they get from manufacturers--which is often needed in order to overcome the design compromises made by the manufacturer. You have a technical background and shop, along with decades of experience on hard routes which gives you a lot of credibility--I applaud the discussions you are initiating and maintaining. Ever since I have known you, you have been a real student of climbing--which is admirable.

Well, I guess I got shorted a bit with respect to grip handle inserts/shims, because truly all I got was one extra insert/shim per tool at time of purchase. I think you are right, go with the smallest grip within reason. I think you are right, the user will use less energy holding onto the tool and gain a little more control when swinging. I kind of thought about what you stated--how many grip inserts/shims can a climber safely add and still have enough thread to shaft to make using umbilicals with the tool a safe proposition (imagine someone's surprise at field testing that issue and coming out on the wrong end of the test!).

I like your idea of using the upper grip on low angle ice. Intuitively it sounds correct, I will have to try it the next time I am out. But old age is creeping up on me as are the years of climbing--my upper back on the left side hurts almost daily--the result of a hard smack in a leader fall years ago, and some fingers in my left hand are a little weak due to tendon stains from decades ago. But I still do what I can with the body I am given.

Also, you are right on in the pick comparison--I did notice a change--not with the same precision to be sure--but it is noticeable. Perhaps BD took years of criticsm about breakage, etc., and made some improvements this year. It would be interesting to run a survey this spring after the technical ice season comes to a close, concerning BD pick breakage. My guess is fewer climbers will report breakage this season if they are running the new (2009-2010 vintage) BD picks--but that is an unscientific guess on my part.

I hope your comments and my reply help the greater climbing community, I always benefitted from those who went before me as well as my peers.

 

Cheers and Merry Christmas to you and your family,

 

Bob Loomis, Spokane, WA

[Doug Shepherd]

I only got one insert per tool as well, same as Bob.

[Dane]

Bob I am just glad we are both still out swinging ! I did hear a rumor from last winter of a fall onto a hanging ice screw stance and then getting back on and firing the route?! You be careful out there now

 

Just to be clear I recieved 3 inserts with each tool...one came already on the tool and two extra in the bag with a wrench for each tool. Have to assume 4 is max safety wise. As you mentioned have to think at pennies a apiece BD would have been included 3 or 4 with every tool. My guess is they made a mistake on the numbers ordered and didn't have them to ship with the first tools.

 

But it is only a guess...worth a call to BD and asking for spares if your require them.

[dbb]

I agree that tools like the new fusion and the nomic take some getting used to in their swing, and are better suited for steep routes.

 

Another grip I use on these "Z handled" tools for swinging places the index on the upper match like a trigger and the other fingers down in the lower grip. It's a nice compromise grip for swinging on low angle terrain where you don't need the whole weight of the tool.

 

 

[Bob Loomis]

Hi AlpineDave,

 

Wow, that is me alright, but for the life of me I cannot recall the time or location. The car in the background is my old Honda, but I have not had that for awhile, so just a guess, the photo is maybe 10+ years ago. My back sure felt better then. I have no idea about the location or who is taking the picture, maybe you can fill me in.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob Loomis, Spokane, WA.

 

 

 

[chirp]

Snow Creek parking lot?

[Bob Loomis]

Hi Chirp,

 

Thanks, I think you are right. I look several times at the road in the background and it looks right for it to be the Snow Lakes Parking Lot. I still cannot place the time and people, but that is okay.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob Loomis, Spokane, WA.

[dbb]

Also, on the picks- If you plan to climb ice with them, I'd put the Laser pick (a B-type pick) on them instead of using the T-type fusion pick.

 

[Dane]

I suspect Bob was more worried about his partner and just took the dbl load in stride Either way

 

 

[EastCoastBastard]

So I've been using the new fusions for the past couple days - I really like them. they're really solid on rock, have a nice swing. I needed to adjust my swing a bit to get them to work well on ice, but once I did that, they were great. Comfortable to match on, secure hooking. No worries.

 

Nice tools.

[Doug Shepherd]

Not to be a dick, but I'm just curious about what kinds of ice are you guys climbing? Plastic, brittle, steepness, etc...?

 

There are a few of us that have had a very different experience with these tools and I'm just trying to figure out if we are crazy or not.

[Bob Loomis]

Hi AlpineDave, Dane, and Others,

 

Now it all comes back to me. Yes, I cannot remember the year, but around 2002, I was climbing Hyperspace with another guy. We got pretty high on the route and he took a fall and fairly badly sprained his ankle and bruised his heel bone. He had trouble putting weight on it, so we elected to bail (kind of a challenge due to the overhanging nature of the route near the top). So we rapped down to out packs. I offered to run out and get a rescue, and to his credit, he said no (the traditional climbing ethic is self rescue if possible). So I gave him a pain killer tablet, we tape up his ankle, got a stick for him to use as a crutch, and I double packed out. He was doing fine within a month of so of the fall.

Yes, Dane is correct, in a situation like that I would and did care about my partner. Probably the relief of getting back to the parking lot with no further incidents led me to celebrate in the way I did, which can look like (to someone who does not know me) that I was just being a showoff and a jackass (which I try never to be). But I guess I was just happy my buddy and I were back down, and it seemed like a celebratory thing to do in the moment (that is accept the push up challenge)--oh well, alls well that ends well.

To the technical issues posed by Doug Sheperd. I have had a chance to get in more swings with the 2010 Fusions. Some cold and brittle ice, and some soft and warm ice. My technical comments do not change or are otherwise dependent on ice temperature. But my earlier comments regarding steepness continue to be reaffirmed. This tool is really at its best on near vertical, vertical, or overhainging terrain. It could be good on alpine ice (but I have not used it in this way), but other tool choices would be better if one is planning to mostly climb moderate ice (say WI 3 and below).

I did add BD Android Leashes to the tools, and really like the feel. They are great leashless or leashed, so I am glad I gave myself the choice. The thing to point out is that with a leash I did not notice a decrease or alteration in performance.

 

Cheers and safe climbing to all,

 

Bob Loomis, Spokane, WA.

[Doug Shepherd]

I'm glad you're enjoying the tools.

 

I haven't climbed anything less than WI4 with my tools and lead a few WI5/6 pitches and a few steep mixed pitches. Even on steep terrain I had lots of problems cleaning the picks. While there is definitely less bouncing as the angle kicks up, I'm pretty sure it's the combination of the steep pick angle, offset handle, and pick design that was leading to the stuck picks.

 

Great to hear you are loving your tools.

[EastCoastBastard]

I'm up north and have been climbing lots of limestone and ice with them. I haven't climbed any ice less than a 4 with them (as someone else pointed out, there are better tools for that angle of ice) and have climbed up to about 5+, M8. The ice has been of all sorts - from nice plastic stuff to cold and brittle to extremely rotten. I think they feel really good. I like them better than the nomics actually, but that's probably more personal preference than anything else. For more ice and moderate mixed, I still like the Vipers/Cobras, but for harder mixed and good ice performance, the Fusions are a great tool.

 

I think they're great tools.

Edited December 22, 2009 by EastCoastBastard