Dane Posted November 5, 2009 Posted November 5, 2009 "Our second bivy on Mount Alberta (not planned) was a simple matter of just passing the time until it was light enough to see where we were going again. There was no comfort other than the knowledge that we were out of harm’s way for the time being. I lay prone, alternating between shivering and doing isometrics to stave off succumbing to hypothermia. I tried to doze off from time to time as I was genuinely exhausted from the physical exertion, the lack of sleep, the mental anxiety, the BITTER cold, the monster approach, from Mount Alberta." I you haven't seen this it is worth the read..... http://alpinestyle.blog.com/ Quote
Off_White Posted November 5, 2009 Posted November 5, 2009 Nice story of a cold bivy. Is "Massive Vinny" Vince Anderson? There's a kind of amusing account of a mid August 2008 trip up NE Butt on Slesse on that blog too. They were shocked to discover the road was gated, couldn't find any current condition info, did a heli approach onto the buttress proper (avoiding the pocket glacier), and hypothesized that they were the first up the route that season and that only one other party had been to the summit that year. I'm guessing he's not aware of this site... Quote
marc_leclerc Posted November 5, 2009 Posted November 5, 2009 Nice story of a cold bivy. Is "Massive Vinny" Vince Anderson? There's a kind of amusing account of a mid August 2008 trip up NE Butt on Slesse on that blog too. They were shocked to discover the road was gated, couldn't find any current condition info, did a heli approach onto the buttress proper (avoiding the pocket glacier), and hypothesized that they were the first up the route that season and that only one other party had been to the summit that year. I'm guessing he's not aware of this site... That was quite amusing.. I read it too. Quote
jmace Posted November 5, 2009 Posted November 5, 2009 Isnt that illegal? I thought heli landings in there were banned when they made it a heritage site. Quote
G-spotter Posted November 6, 2009 Posted November 6, 2009 since when are heli approaches alpine style? Quote
cbcbd Posted November 6, 2009 Posted November 6, 2009 Hey, I wish I could afford a heli for all my approaches. As far as style - I think sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta do to get there in time: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=688171 http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=893003 Quote
marc_leclerc Posted November 6, 2009 Posted November 6, 2009 since when are heli approaches alpine style? no kidding, why fly in to Slesse anyways...? I can see lazy people flying out... but flying in is for pusses who are scared of/impatient with glaciers. Quote
Off_White Posted November 6, 2009 Posted November 6, 2009 I can see lazy people flying out... Now that's an interesting idea. There's a lot more complaints out there about the descent than the approach. Quote
marc_leclerc Posted November 6, 2009 Posted November 6, 2009 I can see lazy people flying out... Now that's an interesting idea. There's a lot more complaints out there about the descent than the approach. the approach is like a 2 hour trail then some easy slab walking if you wait for the glacier to go... Quote
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