denalidave Posted July 21, 2010 Posted July 21, 2010 Can we get back to the important issue here? Why is JH afraid to hang on gear? I've seen him do it, on Dod's, just below Big Ledge. I think I even have a photo of it. I'm sure it was only cause he forgot his chalk though. Quote
JosephH Posted July 21, 2010 Posted July 21, 2010 Can we get back to the important issue here? Why is JH afraid to hang on gear? I've seen him do it, on Dod's, just below Big Ledge. I think I even have a photo of it. I'm sure it was only cause he forgot his chalk though. Yep, if I fuckup that sequence or am too out of shape it's all over pretty quick and I'm left dangling. It's usually either impossible or easy with seemingly no middle ground. Don't know why. Quote
denalidave Posted July 21, 2010 Posted July 21, 2010 A little more chalk is all you need, Joseph... Quote
JosephH Posted July 21, 2010 Posted July 21, 2010 Chalk is definitely not the problem when I don't make it up Dods. Not really sure how much chalk really compensates for an extra 10-15 pounds around the gut, but probably not enough to bother with. Quote
denalidave Posted July 21, 2010 Posted July 21, 2010 Chalk is definitely not the problem when I don't make it up Dods. Not really sure how much chalk really compensates for an extra 10-15 pounds around the gut, but probably not enough to bother with. So, back on topic... If I go scrub YW later this eve, can I do it with just one 70 M rope? Just pitch 3, or all of P 1-3? Where exactly are these new anchors that I presume are available to use for this task? Thanks. Quote
JosephH Posted July 21, 2010 Posted July 21, 2010 Rapping YW from the top is problematic at best. The work anchor wasn't for going in that direction and I wouldn't try going down YW from there. In fact, I can't think of a good way to rap YW without leaving gear at the top unless you wanted to go down to the last bolt on the last pitch and rap of it by itself. Even then you'd need two ropes. Rapping P3 and attempting to pull the rope would suck as well. Best is to climb it up to the P3 crux and rig something off those two pins, clean it, and then re-climb the whole thing. At least that was my plan for this coming full moon. Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted July 21, 2010 Posted July 21, 2010 (edited) As i was coming down the trail last night, there was a guy headed up the trail with a rope and not much else? Was he a "rapper"? Pitch 3 seemed like it could use a good brushing. The belay ledges at the base of pitches 2 and 3 are filthy, and also have a number of rocks that need to be chucked. Pitch 2 was clean, but pitch 1 needed cleaning. Pitch 3 why could you not rap to the pins, and then rap again down from them? Need to leave a sling is all... also to get to the top of 3, seems like from the base of the SE corner upper ramp pitch it is a easy scurry over to the anchors I asked about earlier near the top of YW pitch 4 on the left,you could scramble to them and rap down from there to the top of 3, I don't know why not? Edited July 21, 2010 by stevetimetravlr Quote
kevbone Posted July 21, 2010 Author Posted July 21, 2010 Maybe we should drill a couple of maintenance anchors to clean YW…..then JH can come along and chop chop chop. Quote
denalidave Posted July 21, 2010 Posted July 21, 2010 Rapping YW from the top is problematic at best. The work anchor wasn't for going in that direction and I wouldn't try going down YW from there. In fact, I can't think of a good way to rap YW without leaving gear at the top unless you wanted to go down to the last bolt on the last pitch and rap of it by itself. Even then you'd need two ropes. Rapping P3 and attempting to pull the rope would suck as well. Best is to climb it up to the P3 crux and rig something off those two pins, clean it, and then re-climb the whole thing. At least that was my plan for this coming full moon. OK, good to know. I was thinking of either coming down from the ramp on the corner and build and anchor where the corner & YW meet so I could then get to the top of P3 in the alcove with the fixed pins. Fix a single line that I could then re-climb after I cleaned it. I just don't want to re-invent the wheel if there is an easier way. Seems like one 70m rope would work if it was fixed at the top of P3, but yeah, rapping to pitch 3 seems problematic, at best. Might be easier to do it in smaller sections? Quote
kevbone Posted July 21, 2010 Author Posted July 21, 2010 JH already re-invented the wheel...... "maintenance anchors" Quote
denalidave Posted July 21, 2010 Posted July 21, 2010 As i was coming down the trail last night, there was a guy headed up the trail with a rope and not much else? Was he a "rapper"? Pitch 3 seemed like it could use a good brushing. The belay ledges at the base of pitches 2 and 3 are filthy, and also have a number of rocks that need to be chucked. Pitch 2 was clean, but pitch 1 needed cleaning. Pitch 3 why could you not rap to the pins, and then rap again down from them? Need to leave a sling is all... also to get to the top of 3, seems like from the base of the SE corner upper ramp pitch it is a easy scurry over to the anchors I asked about earlier near the top of YW pitch 4 on the left,you could scramble to them and rap down from there to the top of 3, I don't know why not? Either that, or I was going to do the first 2 pitches of the corner, then rope solo pitch 3 of YW, fix my line and scrub away. Not sure if I have enough daylight to go that route as I am still a novice at the whole rope solo thing and it takes me a lot longer than it should. Quote
denalidave Posted July 22, 2010 Posted July 22, 2010 Crackman ended up making it out and we made a run up YW. I did a bit of scrubbing on P3 but we did not get off the ground till around 7 PM, so we had little time for scrubbing. All in all, it did not seem nearly as dirty as described. A few more laps and it should be as good as ever. What's up with the new shiny bolt above the slab crux on P4 of YW? I don't recall any bolt/fixed gear there before (other than the old pin that is so tempting to stand on). The bolt was very loose and I tightened with my fingers before clipping it. Did the FA approve of the bolt??? Or, maybe there was already an old rusty bolt that was replaced and I just don't remember it??? Quote
denalidave Posted July 22, 2010 Posted July 22, 2010 JH already re-invented the wheel...... "maintenance anchors" Those were nice to belay off of today, no need to fuss with all that trad gear crap, but what would the DAWG say? Quote
JosephH Posted July 22, 2010 Posted July 22, 2010 What's up with the new shiny bolt above the slab crux on P4 of YW? Are you saying there is now a bolt above the p4 crux bolt and slab pin? If so I'll take care of it Sat/Sun night when I do it. Quote
denalidave Posted July 22, 2010 Posted July 22, 2010 What's up with the new shiny bolt above the slab crux on P4 of YW? Are you saying there is now a bolt above the p4 crux bolt and slab pin? If so I'll take care of it Sat/Sun night when I do it. Yes, it was not even tightened up all the way. Maybe it was below the pin but I'm pretty sure I remember it above the pin on the next bulge/roofy area. Either way, it was brand new and I doubt Jim or the other FAs would approve. Quote
JosephH Posted July 22, 2010 Posted July 22, 2010 There has always been a badly drilled bolt w/ a loose nut at the p4 crux. It's between two pins, one big one as you come up to the crux and another in the middle of the slab after you pull the crux. Quote
denalidave Posted July 22, 2010 Posted July 22, 2010 There has always been a badly drilled bolt w/ a loose nut at the p4 crux. It's between two pins, one big one as you come up to the crux and another in the middle of the slab after you pull the crux. Yeah, that is the one. I just don't remember it. I'm glad to hear it was not a new bolt. I'd forget my head if it wern't nailed on... Quote
kevbone Posted July 22, 2010 Author Posted July 22, 2010 That bolt was placed around 1997 or so. Maybe as late as 98. It is not new and you have to tighten it every time. Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted August 23, 2010 Posted August 23, 2010 As the Beacon turns. This afternoon racing up the corner with Rick and I was watching a guy rapping Jills Thrill to Snag Ledge from the 2nd belay on the se corner. All of a sudden, he screamed and fell off the rope and past the anchors and disappeared. He had rapped off one of the ends of his rope. He did not have a middle marker on this rope and didn't pull enough thru. He was about 15 feet above the anchors when he blew, and he fell out of my sight and I thought for sure he was history, going the 100 feet to the ground but he somehow miraculously wedged against the block you pull over right at the top of the first pitch of the corner, and after a bit came crawling back up to the anchors. He told me he should be dead, and I agreed with him. Holy shit! Quote
kevbone Posted August 23, 2010 Author Posted August 23, 2010 As the Beacon turns. This afternoon racing up the corner with Rick and I was watching a guy rapping Jills Thrill to Snag Ledge from the 2nd belay on the se corner. All of a sudden, he screamed and fell off the rope and past the anchors and disappeared. He had rapped off one of the ends of his rope. He did not have a middle marker on this rope and didn't pull enough thru. He was about 15 feet above the anchors when he blew, and he fell out of my sight and I thought for sure he was history, going the 100 feet to the ground but he somehow miraculously wedged against the block you pull over right at the top of the first pitch of the corner, and after a bit came crawling back up to the anchors. He told me he should be dead, and I agreed with him. Holy shit! Holy shit. How can he be rapping Jills Thrill to snag from the 2nd belay on the corner? That does not make sense? Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted August 23, 2010 Posted August 23, 2010 I was at the 2nd belay on the corner. He was doing the last rap on Jills to Snag Ledge. Bad description on my part. Quote
JosephH Posted August 23, 2010 Posted August 23, 2010 That's about as lucky as it gets in climbing. Quote
denalidave Posted August 23, 2010 Posted August 23, 2010 As the Beacon turns. This afternoon racing up the corner with Rick and I was watching a guy rapping Jills Thrill to Snag Ledge from the 2nd belay on the se corner. All of a sudden, he screamed and fell off the rope and past the anchors and disappeared. He had rapped off one of the ends of his rope. He did not have a middle marker on this rope and didn't pull enough thru. He was about 15 feet above the anchors when he blew, and he fell out of my sight and I thought for sure he was history, going the 100 feet to the ground but he somehow miraculously wedged against the block you pull over right at the top of the first pitch of the corner, and after a bit came crawling back up to the anchors. He told me he should be dead, and I agreed with him. Holy shit! Holy shit. How can he be rapping Jills Thrill to snag from the 2nd belay on the corner? That does not make sense? Holy Bacon Batman! Quote
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