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[TR] First summit - Greenwood 9/11/2009


tvashtarkatena

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Trip: First summit - Greenwood

 

Date: 9/11/2009

 

Trip Report:

TR: First Summit: Greenwood

9/10-11/09

 

 

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Fire on the Mountain. Dumbell from Phelps Basin camp

 

 

“Yeah, lets kick it here with the marmots”

 

Nearly a year ago my friend and racquetball partner floated the idea of my introducing his then 20 year old son Max to the alpine environment. Tam’s no stranger to strange ideas, so I took a good long while before finally coming to the conclusion that this could turn out well if:

 

a) Max was fit and

b) Max was actually interested in such a venture

 

Any parent can tell you that the best way to turn your offspring off to an idea is to actually suggest it, but with Max’s lifeguarding season winding down and school still weeks away, he warmed to the idea. Still, I had yet to meet him.

 

Within five minutes of the meeting I knew that this was going to be a great adventure for both of us.

 

The original plan was to go out for six straight days, but prior commitments and weather conspired to split it into two trips: a 2 day climb of Greenwood and a 4 day trip out to the Washington Pass/Sawtooth/Pasayten area.

 

This report is the first of installment of this 2 part outing, the latter of which we embark on tomorrow morning. I chose Greenwood as our first objective because it offers a little trail, a little alp slope, a little talus, a little hard snow/ice, and a little exposure, all in a spectacular setting. It also just happens to be #95 out of 100.

 

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Max at the notch, with Greenwood in the background

 

 

Max had been certified to belay in a gym, and had done a boundary waters canoe trip, but had yet to sport crampons, summit an alpine peak, or enjoy horse cock.

 

I picked him up the morning of the first day and had him yard sale his pack, jettison the white long johns, Boy Scout mess kit, and a few other non-essentials. After a coffee/croissant stop at the Central Market, we were headed for that verdant ribbon of Shangri La that is Highway 2.

 

It was about a mile outside of Goldbar when I spotted this guy on the side of the road with the biggest damn salmonid I’ve ever seen pulled from a Washington River draped down his back.

 

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Catch of the Day. Chris of Pickle Farm Road.

 

I asked him for his picture, he asked us for a ride. Fair enough. I had him lay his prizes VERY CAREFULLY down on his fishing vest. We took damn near to the end of Pickle Farm road; a little piece of Appalachia nestled right here in Washington. When asked for directions, Chris would substitute ‘across ways’ for right and left. Neither Max nor I were entirely sure he could tell the difference, but man, he sure could fish.

 

 

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Northern exposure. Near the notch.

 

At the trailhead, I handed Max the maps, a compass, and assigned him as trip navigator.

 

I brought a rope and a handful of cams as a psychological buffer for a bit of first time exposure on The Ledge ™; the secret passageway between Dumbell and Greenwood. If you want to know what The Ledge ™ is like, there’s a photo below which answers that question rather succinctly.

 

The route is straightforward: Follow main drainage from Phelps Basin to notch. Traverse The Ledge ™, cross the pocket glacier, ascend the talus ridgeline to the summit.

 

 

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Sizing up the summit from the Dumbell/Greenwood saddle

 

I had actually camped in the saddle between these two peaks three years prior, coming in via the rather more arduous Seven Fingered Jack ridge/Dumbell Lake approach. What, never heard of it? I’d intended to climb both peaks from the saddle, but unseasonably frigid weather, snow flurries, and a terrible night’s sleep thanks to a traitorously limp Thermarest over ice cold stone dampened my enthusiasm the following morning, even for the half hour ridge saunter to Greenwood’s summit.

 

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Glacier Peak panorama from the summit

 

 

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First summit cheeze. Bonanza in the background

 

 

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The Ledge. Copper and Fernow in the background

 

 

Fortunately, Max was all about the cheeze, and I had a great time photographing his seemingly endless repertoire of facial expressions.

 

Once back at the notch, we heard a dog bark from the basin below. An elderly gentlemen, resplendent in Hunter Orange, and his two slowly wagging pups were moving slowly but steadily upwards towards The Ledge, like something out of the Triplets of Belleville.

 

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An old man and his dogs stroll across The Ledge

 

I gave Max the choice of whether or not to tag Dumbell, which I’d already done, but he was mercifully satisfied and ready to head down.

 

 

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Hairlipped marmot. Spider Meadow.

 

 

After such a great first installment, Max and I are off tomorrow for 4 more days of alpine fun, including a double plus top secret bonus mission. Stay tuned.

 

 

Gear Notes:

tennies, crampons (six points or whatever)

Edited by tvashtarkatena
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