jpark42 Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 Trip: NEWS and Goat Wall - West Face and Sisyphus Date: 8/23/2009 Trip Report: After slogging up to do EMS last weekend, I decided some Alpine Cragging was in order. After a glowing trip report from a friend, I decided to check out the West Face route on SNEWS. I'll save you the specifics of the morning, other then we started driving at 5am from seattle, and let you know that the route is awesome and worth the drive itself. The first 3 pitches are adequate but nothing to write home about. But the 4 and the 5 are classic lines and deserved to be done over and over again. Pitch 4 is a 5.11- finger crack. The rating on this one is dependent on handsize and would probably be a little easier for some one with smaller hands. Me on top of the 5.11 finger crack. The next pitch is an amazing 5.10 fingers to 5.8 hand crack. Though a little soft,I felt like this was my favorite pitch and a treat for anyone that loves finger cracks Pitch 5 All and all a really sweet day. My partner on top with SEWS in the background. At this point we rapped off and checked out the first pitch on Mojo Rising. This line put up my Mark Allen in 04 is an aid climb up SEWS but the first pitch is a 5.11 sport climbing up to the last four bolts, they go at A0. This route has a wickedly fun mantel crux, I heel hooked, and is an awesome way to end the day with some hard sport climbing. You can top rope it, just barely, with a 60m rope. Heading up towards the crux of Mojo Rising At this point we headed to a friends in Mazama, ate some food, and crashed in his yard. Day 2 At my friends behest, the second day we checked out Sisyphus on Goat Wall. 11 pitches of pretty decent sport climbing, no need to bring the heavy rack, brings you to a ledge and the "fun" 13 rappel descent. Don't let the rating fool you, the climb is a soft 5.11 and anyone that can lead 5.10 should be able to climb this route with little problem. The route description in the Mazama Guide is right on, other then the bolt numbers. Here are some pictures: My partner finishing up the first 10b On the top of Sisyphus. Gear Notes: For NEWS: Nuts, nuts, and more nuts. This thing swallows them whole. It is actually easier to place nuts then cams. Other then nuts I would bring double up to #1 and bring a single #2/3. Mojo Rising: Bring your A game. Bring an aider, for the A0. Sisyphus: The guide book is way off on the # of bolts. I would bring 13 quickdraws especially if you plan on linking pitches 1/2 and 10/11. Approach Notes: NEWS: Easy Mojo Rising: Go climbers right of the big rock at the base of NEWS where everyone leaves their packs and follow the bolt line. Sisyphus: First pull off near goat wall. Follow cairns. Go left. up gully and use fixed line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 Great pics of NEWS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 FYI, you can link 4 & 5 on NEWS; now that's a sweet pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan_e Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 JP is right on about NEWS, although P3 (.9 under cling traverse) was quite fun as well (great exposure). The first pitch is the worst and goes up a rotten crack/groove that doesn't protect well until you're well off the deck. Try to avoid the lichen filled crack up and left of the dihedral on P2. The SCC vol 1, ver 2 guide points to where you want to go so avoid the written description which says to go up the dihedral. This option could be fun, but the crack needs a good scrubbing. Beckey's guide has a good description and topo as well. This was my first "official" climb at Washington Pass and I have to say I am now hooked, too bad it wasn't a bit closer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpark42 Posted August 25, 2009 Author Share Posted August 25, 2009 Another note: A pair of bolts and chains has been added below the A0 section of Mojo rising. Now you can enjoy the fun 5.11 mantel without pulling up A0 to get to the top anchors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpark42 Posted August 25, 2009 Author Share Posted August 25, 2009 JP is right on about NEWS, although P3 (.9 under cling traverse) was quite fun as well (great exposure). The first pitch is the worst and goes up a rotten crack/groove that doesn't protect well until you're well off the deck. P3 was extremely fun as well, I agree!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SemoreJugs Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Kick ass Jeremy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 The Mazama guide a new book out? All I have for the area is this link Winthrop Mountain Sport Looking to head up to that area next weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 Yes. You can buy it at the Mazama Store, or in town at Trail's End bookstore. You can also pick up topos for Sisyphus outside the North Cascades Mountain Guides office in Mazama. But you should consider buying the book and help support Brian Burdo and all his work (along with a few other locals). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 Thanks for the info. I will go and pick up the book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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