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[TR] Mt. Triumph - NE Ridge 7/15/2009


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Trip: Mt. Triumph - NE Ridge


Date: 7/15/2009


Trip Report:

On July 15th Dave and I (Tyler) climbed Mt. Triumph via the North East Ridge. We hiked to the lower Thornton Lake on the evening of the 14th which took a few hours. We lost a bit of time on the morning of the 15th by getting off-route on the approach up to the notch at 5700 ft. From the notch we traversed easy terrain on the glacier to reach the NE ridge. We climbed eight pitches plus some simul-climbing to reach the summit around 5PM (hence the great evening light towards the end). We finished rapping the route as the sun set and crossed the glacier in darkness. We bivied on the notch at 5700 and hiked out early this morning.




Shot taken at the notch at 5700 ft. with the NE ridge on the right skyline.




Dave following pitch 2.




Dave leading pitch 3.



Dave about to follow on the knifey ridge with big exposure... definitely my favorite part of the climb.




Summit pyramid.




Dave leading the crux pitch.




Me enjoying the summit.




Down-climbing to the first rap station.







Dave having fun as we try to get off the route before darkness.




The views on this climb were stunning, especially in the evening light. I couldn't keep from gazing towards the Pickets and thinking about all the possibilities. Sadly, I won't have time to get there this summer so I'll be hanging this shot on the fridge to remind me of what I'll be missing when I move from WA next month.


There were a few loose flakes but overall the rock was good. Not many hard moves on this route but plenty of run-outs. Thanks to Dave for a great climb as this was one of my favorites.


Gear Notes:

Cams to 3 and we used some larger stoppers. I chose to forego crampons on the glacier while Dave used them... matter of preference.


Approach Notes:

There is quite a bit of snow covering the stream between the first and second lake so crossing was not an issue. We made the silly mistake of passing the gully that leads to the notch at 5700. Stay to the right of the second lake and head up the obvious gully staring you in the face. There are some great bivy spots with water at the notch.



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