Bosterson Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 I have started thinking about getting a new harness. This seems like it'd be par for the course except that my "current" harness is an Arc'teryx Targa that's about 10 years old! (Don't worry - it's been in the closet for most of its life.) I'm heading to Squamish in about a month, and though it's for a bouldering trip I might want to throw a harness on and the Targa seems to be at retirement age. A lot has happened in harness technology in the past ten years. Can anyone explain what's new and/or give recommendations? (For instance, it appears that all harnesses are now auto-double backed, which is staggering.) I guess I'd be looking for a comfortable all-arounder - I think my one criterion is that it must have a rear haul loop (ie, not an ultralight sport harness); everything else is negotiable. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 misty mountain cadillac http://climbmaxmountaineering.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=275 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t_rutl Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 BD Momentum AL (or Primrose for the ladies) is a great choice for a new harness IMO...light, comfy, adjustable, rear haul loop, thick belay loop and only like $55 i have a couple for loaners when new people hit the crag...i use one for most alpine stuff not all harnesses are "auto doubled back" although there are starting to be more and more companies are starting to go to a new method of load bearing...rather than padding an almost linked webbing contracts to distribute the pressure (look at Arc'teryx's Warp Technology)...makes for a nice gig when hanging or taking a whipper but expensive (think ~$130)...i use my Arc'teryx R320 for sport and long, hot trad days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosterson Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 The Momentum AL does look like a good call. It seems like a good all-arounder. I've checked out the new webbing-style harnesses by Arc'teryx and BD - they're interesting, and seem super light (if that matters?), but it seems like the edges of the leg loops and waistbelt would cut into you when you weight it. I just tried them on at REI though, so you can probably tell me how they are in practice. I loved my Arc'teryx Targa - it was like a $60 version of the Vapor back when no one else made harnesses that could touch theirs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMO Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 I have the arc'teryx 300a... love it! Light weight and comfortable, almost forget it's on. My only complaint is the elastic risers that keep the leg loops up have gotten hammered from very little glissading... a little disconcerting given the price of those things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 I climbed for five years on a $35 Rock Empire harness and thought it was just great the whole time. I still use it in the gym and since it's getting old, I'm thinking about buying another one just for that. For outdoors I've since upgraded to one of the fancy new Arcteryx ones and have to say it's nice. Very light, very comfortable. Kind of expensive. It does not have a real haul loop which is weird to me but it hasn't caused trouble yet. If you need to drop trou, the little catch at the back of the harness is a REAL pain in the ass to fiddle with. It might loosen up with time but for now it sucks. The leg loops on mine are not adjustable which is a slight inconvenience but they make some that aren't like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t_rutl Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 The Momentum AL does look like a good call. It seems like a good all-arounder. I've checked out the new webbing-style harnesses by Arc'teryx and BD - they're interesting, and seem super light (if that matters?), but it seems like the edges of the leg loops and waistbelt would cut into you when you weight it. I just tried them on at REI though, so you can probably tell me how they are in practice. I loved my Arc'teryx Targa - it was like a $60 version of the Vapor back when no one else made harnesses that could touch theirs. The Momentum comes in at 405g and my Arc'Teryx R320 at 320g so the weight difference is negledgable as far as i'm concerned...to be honest i bought it because i'm a gear whore and it was one of the coolest new things that came out it is quite comfortable and does not dig in...the momentum is super comfy as well...also it requires you to double back on both the waist and leg loops...the R320 has fixed legs and an auto double back on the waist I dont think anybody can go wrong buying the Momentum...especially at $55!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodchips Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 It does not have a real haul loop which is weird to me but it hasn't caused trouble yet. What do y'all use a haul loop for? Trailing a second rope? I always climb on doubles when there's two followers, so maybe that's why I've never cared about a haul loop? Seems like you could always tie a piece of cord back there instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Yes, trailing a second rope. Pretty necessary in aid climbing anyway, althought this probably isn't a great aid harness. Tying a cord would mess up the waistband, the webbing would bunch up. I also hang my chalk bag from it, which is apparently frowned upon by gym rats, which makes me enjoy it more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhluhr Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Love my Arteryx A300a. The leg and waist loops do NOT cut into you at all. They've really got it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMO Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 (edited) I too really like my Arc'teryx 300a, but after a day of cragging I've decided to only use it for situations where every ounce counts. After reading this thread (and seeing about a dozen people using these yesterday) I pulled the trigger on the BD Momentum AL for cragging. Edited July 20, 2009 by TMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 I prefer clipping my approach shoes to the haul loop. Keeps them out of the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosterson Posted July 20, 2009 Author Share Posted July 20, 2009 Thanks for all the input. I ended up getting the Momentum AL. Oregon Mountain Community (great shop here in Portland, also have a great web store - lots of stuff is on sale) also had the Momentum SA, which is apparently the newer version. The difference? The SA ("speed adjust") has buckles that you don't have to double back - they thread that way automatically but can be quickly loosened and tightened. Much faster and easier than normal double backing. That said, the AL was maybe $10 less than the SA, and since I am fine doing my own double backing, and since I actually prefer to unthread the waist buckle completely while putting the harness on, I decided to save the money and get the AL. It was a steal at only $45! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 I have the arc'teryx 300a... love it! Light weight and comfortable, almost forget it's on. My only complaint is the elastic risers that keep the leg loops up have gotten hammered from very little glissading... a little disconcerting given the price of those things. Maybe you should glissade on your feet instead of sliding on your butt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMO Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 (edited) I started on my feet, ended up on my butt! Edit: What, and trash my boots? Edited July 22, 2009 by TMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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