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Posted

Trip: Exfoliation Dome -

 

Date: 6/28/2009

 

Trip Report:

I went up the Dome yesterday and it was GREAT!

 

Somebody has cleared the road to fifty yards short of the usual parking spot, where the road was severely damaged by a huge slide that came down the Granite Sidewalk last year. The last mile or so needs some brushing along the roadsides and crossing the first gravel wash below Baloney Dome is not passable for a low rider, but the road is actually in pretty good shape.

 

The first two hundred yards up the wash toward the Granite Sidewalk is a mess, but it could be significantly improved if a couple of folks when up there with tools and just pushed some of the avalanche debris around enough to make a clearer passage (even just sweeping the sand of some of the boulders with a broom would help).

 

The remainder of the approach to the west side routes is cleaner than it was last year and the frogs have returned to the frog pond (I was worried about the little guys last year).

 

DarkRhythm.jpg

 

Catbird and I climbed Dark Rhythm and then added a couple of bolts to Jacob's Ladder and to the rappels. I didn't get on these routes last year; I almost forgot how great they are. The Dome really rocks!

 

Exfoliation.jpg

 

 

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Posted

I'll go up there with you, Mr. F. The Dome really IS a lot of fun with a great combination of a an actual peak climb that has a truly enjoyable approach with real rock climbs up to about 12 pitches. And the views are spectacular. Did I forget to say how great it is?

Posted

Nice Matt!

I was up at 3:00 Rock with the masses.:-)

 

Where did you add bolts to Jacob;s Ladder?

Thinkin' about getting on that one again in the next week or two.

 

Cheers.

Jimbo

 

 

Posted

I added two bolts at places where there had previously been rather marginal pro for a long way, and one to a new variant on pitch 6 (the last few times I've been up there I ended up climbing up to a (now) off-route bolt to clip it to then climb down again and make a tricky traverse). The route remains pretty much just as it was.

 

I added a rappel station straight in line on the lower part of the route so you don't have to make a seriously diagonal right rappel followed by a diagonal left one.

 

I'll be tinkering with the route some more. My next trip up there will involve some scrubbing. If anybody wants to help I'd be glad for a partner. My regular partners are fixated on other matters.

Posted

Jacobs Ladder and Rainman involve more than just slab climbing,* though Rainman has two pitches and part of a third with some significant stretches of pure slab climbing (JL starts out with two pitches of slab and finishes with a pitch that is mostly slab climbing but these are not the heart of the route). You will find these routes different than a typical slab climb - in places steeper and involving edging and such. Dark Rhythm is a slab climb and a good one. W. Buttress (Blueberry) actually involves very little slab climbing, but Westward Ho is purely a slab climb. I don't know, but I bet SunDried Tomatoes involves a significant amount of face climbing as well.

 

The sidewalk is actually very clean right now. It is a mess getting to it, but it is a short mess.

 

*I realize that modern climbers call anything less than vertical a "slab" so I'll offer some clarification. By "slab climbing" I mean climbing where you step on the middle of the front of your foot and generally step up with little or nothing for a positive edge to pull on. Where these climbs get steeper you must use edging technique and hope for some king of fingerholds.

Posted (edited)

For those familiar with the CC rap route to descend from Blueberry Terrace, it takes about 4 double 60 meter rope rappels to get down to a small terrace with trees on it. From there one has to rappel a low angle slab which is just a bit too steep for most people to downclimb.

 

The anchor used to be a bunch of tat eminating from a cluster of trees. Pulling the ropes was always a chore. Now there is a pair of bolts with blue and red (recycled) webbing and rap rings to go from. Ropes pull easily now.

 

If you descend by the rap route be absolutely sure your ropes both 60 meters long. Otherwise your choices are Westward Ho, Dark Rhythm or Jacob's Ladder.

Edited by catbirdseat
Posted (edited)

The original way to get to it was to rap from a large tree right at the lower edge of the terrace. That tree currently has a dying top and a red sling at the base. I have found that you can instead use the anchor for Jacob's Ladder, which is a shiny stainless Fixe anchor in a friendly location.

 

You might have to traverse just a little to climber's/rappeller's right (south) to get to the next station which is a ledge about a foot wide, shaped like a big crescent, if memory serves me. The anchors consist of a pair of open cold shuts with a third bolt above backing them up.

 

Here are some of the pictures I took on the trip.

 

This is what you see where you park. Downed trees to 10 inches. Anyone got a chainsaw?

Downed_Trees.JPG

After the trees, there are some big rocks in the gully where the road crosses.

Road_2nd_Gully.JPG

Matt strolling the Granite Sidewalk

Granite_Sidewalk.JPG

Matt leading the third pitch of Dark Rhythm

Matt_Leading_Pitch_3.JPG

The fourth (crux) pitch

Matt_on_Pitch_4.JPG

A friendly butterfly

Butterfly.JPG

Exfoliation Dome has some nice views: Liberty Mountain and Green Giant Buttress

Green_Giant_Buttress.JPG

Three Fingers: South, Middle, and North from left to right

Threefingers.JPG

Kicking back with a cold beer at the Beer Pond

The_Beer_Pond.JPG

Avalanche Debris and snow in approach gullyAvy_Debris.JPG

Edited by catbirdseat

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