SS conditions?

[scm007]

What is the condition of the trade route up the SS of Hood right now?

 

Are people jumping off the hogsback early and traversing to the WCR finish?

 

How is the traverse/final pitch up the headwall on WCR? Any need for a 2nd tool?

[Stime]

I'll be climbing it tonight/tomorrow morning.

 

I plan to hit the Hogsback and traverse over to the Old Chute. I'll be carrying trekking poles and one tool. Can't imagine needing two tools for it.

 

I'll let you know tomorrow how it was. Probably be out of the parking lot around 1 AM... summit a bit before sunrise.

[LonelySummit]

Last week was warm....Seem like tonight is not much different..Last week started at 10:30 to hit the summit at sunrise, great timing. This week going a bit later at night. One tool, two trekking poles and a sled.

 

 

Don't know who the dude was with no helmet - At least I got a tight image. See you tonight!

[Stime]

You're heading up tonight? What time are you leaving the parking lot? I'll be in a white Grivel helmet w/ one tool.

 

I'll see you on the mountain!

 

<-- Scott

[Frikadeller]

Bring your helmet, you are gonna need it.

 

Two weeks in a row, I got pummeled in the chute by ice. I suspect it will be no different this weekend. Take the "center" boot pack. It's free from the snizz that falls from the upper towers.

 

At this point, I am thinking of taking up learning to rock climb....

Edited May 26, 2009 by Frikadeller

[Stime]

Climbed the SS this morning. The route is in fantastic shape. Very direct, very easy to follow... very easy in general. Only took me around 5 hours car-to-car with a half hour or so on the summit. Left the car at ~2 AM and was back a little after 7 AM. VERY little rock/ice fall.

 

Little windy on top and pretty chilly today up there.

 

 

Edited May 26, 2009 by Stime

[offroadfanatic]

Awesome shot man!

[dhrmabum]

Hey, Stime.

Question for ya, did you take the traverse off the Hogsback, or drop down near the fumaroles and head straight up? If so on the traverse, what kind of shape is that in? Thanks.

[Stime]

I dropped down and traversed low then straight up the fumaroles. Saw no need for the high traverse. Everything was in stellar shape. Great snow for cramponing (didn't even use the ice tool I brought) and basically a staircase has been booted in up the final slopes. The upper traverse looked fine too, just don't see any reason to do it. More ice/rock fall and greater fall potential than the low traverse.

 

At the top, I went off the standard chute and ascended a steeper gully to the right to gain the summit ridge, but that was just for fun more than anything. I descended the direct gully and it was fine.

[scm007]

Yup the conditions were great for cramponing. I didn't use the staircase, and the climbing was fun! I also traversed low.

[dhrmabum]

ahhh. . I knew I should've made the effort to go up yesterday . .

Lucky guys. Sounds like it was good.

Edited May 27, 2009 by dhrmabum

[Stime]

Yup the conditions were great for cramponing. I didn't use the staircase, and the climbing was fun! I also traversed low.

 

Were you the solo guy I chatted with at the Hogsback? I was heading down, you were going up (if it was you).

[scm007]

Maybe, were you the guy that went up high on the traverse, then backed down? Gave us some advice about going through the dirt patch.

[Stime]

I gave advice to a solo guy (and a couple others) to go low, but I did the low traverse when I went up as well. I was coming back down by the Hogsback about 6 AM. There was no need to do the high traverse, not sure why everyone was doing it including that massive group. I was way ahead of all that mess.

[scm007]

Yeah I was also way ahead of that huge Mazama (I'm assuming) group. Passed them pretty early on even though they left way before us. I think I did talk to you, I'm pretty sure I was the solo guy you gave advice.

[Water]

Sorry we were a mess--there wasn't almost anyone up there, us being the only group and it seemed like what, perhaps 7 other folks solo or group of 2? Yes that was a mazamas group. My first, and last, mt. hood climb with them (though not the last hood climb, probably with a person or two from the group). We definitely went slow, not everyone was capable of going faster perhaps.

 

The group started with 11, 3 turned back at various points along the way up (I didn't hear their reasons, but it was obviously their comfort with something or another cause the weather was fine)-so it could have been 3 rope teams instead of two.. messier I guess.

 

i personally am not sure why we did the high traverse. A cloud came in actually as we were doing that last bit and I think we went on the high, came off it a bit, intersecting with the low around where it turns up ward (not my decision). I think part of a mazama climb doing that is for the sake of doing the route that was planned months earlier (ie the traverse) if it can be done. Our leader talked about not needing to rope up and possibly going over the fumeroles, if conditions warranted.

 

Other than the very minor elevation loss of going down the hogsback and over the fumeroles is there any reasons not to do this to avoid the traverse when it is warmer

[LonelySummit]

I don't think 2 groups of 4 is "massive". It was a great night to climb though; I'm surprised more people didn't make the trip. I bet a total of 12 people summited for the whole day. Water - we need GD sleds.

[dhrmabum]

Anyone up for a climb Fri/sat. morn?

Must say, I'm a bit of a newb, but. . . did try and go up 2 weeks ago, with Tmguides, and we were turned back due to icefall. Guides decision that I respect. Now, though, I'm ready to get back up there. I do feel confident with crampons, ice axe, etc. Have done Adams once. Looking to gain more experience and have a great time. Very beautiful up there, eh?

Anyone up for it?

[scm007]

Why not just solo it, or find a buddy and group solo it? The climbing is almost nonexistent up until the last pitch, which is then quite easy but very fun.

[Stime]

Sorry about the "massive" comment. When I got back from being on the summit with just two other people, there were about 12-14 people on/around the Hogsback. It looked like a 'massive' bunch of people that I just lumped together. You guys didn't bother me at all. Glad you enjoyed your climb.

[Stime]

dhrmbum, as scm said, I would just solo it. Or, you could even drive up to the trailhead (or wake up) early and wait til a group leaves. Chat them up and ask if you can hike up with them. 95% of climbers won't mind, just let them go ahead if you're slowing them down. But, if you can keep with them, it should be no problem. I've had people hop on with me in the past, some were great company for the climb.

[dhrmabum]

Yeah, I was thinking of soloing it, have been thinking of it for some time. Almost went for it on Mon. but, too tired after returning from Seattle the night before.

Anyway, yeah, just have a little of newbie-nervousness; I think once I'm up there I'll be fine.

We were roped, with our guide, a couple of weeks ago, and I know there's the pros and cons of rope/no rope, but, guess that's where a bit of the nervousness comes from-unroped solo, etc.

Do you think most of the rime shit has come down by now?

Thanks guys for the optimistic push. And info. Appreciated.

[Water]

I know on Tuesday morning even after the sun was hitting directly on the upper cliffs with rime, not much was coming down. The most I saw fall was from loose bits on the bootpath on the chute. Being new myself to climbing I was curious how the conditions would compare to two sundays ago when it had only been warm and sunny for a few days, and stuff was coming down pretty majorly well before the sun was hitting anything. Sounds like consistent weather has done it better, even if it has been warmer. I wouldn't let that take my guard/awareness down. See how it is when you get up to the hogsback, if you see anything, talk to anyone coming down. Maybe head up earlier just as well, summiting at sunrise.

 

 

[dhrmabum]

That's the plan, man. . . And, I was up there two sundays ago, and that's when our guide turned us back, right there at the last approach by the fumaroles. But, the ice was pelting down, and he decided we should get outa there.

Hopefully my back will be better by then, just a sudden wrench this morning. . . Sonofabitch. But, yeah, other than that, I'm psyched to get up there, and I will certainly keep my guard up.

Cheers.

[Maine-iac]

Good conditions up there this morning. I heard stuff falling and cracking a few times, but never actually saw anything come down; granted I was at the summit at 4, and off soon there after. There were a ton of people up there!!!!!!!! I counted 30 at the Hogsback area by 5am, and another 30 or so on their way up!

 

I did a little "exploring" in the Gates area. I wanted to climb one of the gates ice falls, but right as I hit the Hogsback a cloud sat ontop of it, so the vis went to nill. I ended up climbing straight off of the end of the Hogsback, to the left of the Gates. I topped out on one of those pillar thingys, but thankfully it connected to another snice pitch, which lead to the summit.