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Which route is this? The Passenger or Inferno?


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I was up on the saddle by the South Arete. This would have been the first pitch as they didn't go much higher than that pitch. Partly due to not having the right rack and partly to a forest fire that started across the valley smoking us out. This is a pic of where they started.

 

start.jpg

Edited by briangoldstone
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I don't think that is the passenger.

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Do you have a Topo or pitch-by pitch beta for this route? I've been wanting to get on it for a while now.

 

We used a topo out of brudo's "north cascades rock"...out of print but I think they might make you a photo copy at second ascent or feathered friends? Sol (poster below you) has a good pitch by pitch trip report... or mine is here. Going by Sol's pitches fitz face traversed below the roof to gain the cracks instead of (or before) chimneying on p5 and climbed the right wide crack on p6 (a bit of burly 5.9 wide without wide gear. )

 

I think mark westman said he left a cam in the roof at the start of p5 (we somehow missed it by traversing lower) so if you see one its his.

 

Are newer routes like the hitchhiker in the new beckey book?

Edited by ryanb
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could be a free version of that old aid route on the left side of the face. we drooled over the possibilites when we were up there. don't have a beckey guide around but something like midnight ride?

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Hitchhiker is in Burdo's new Mazama Rocks guidebook, sort of the update to the old North Cascades guide of his, but this time with photos instead of drawings. It covers all that Mazama cragging (including Goat Wall and a bunch of newer crags) as well as some stuff in the eastern bowl of the Liberty Bell - Silverstar area.

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it's waaay to the left of the Passenger. i was on passenger last summer. the route shown here- Rudy and I had a falls start a few years back- thinking it's the Passenger. Rudy led the first pitch, which was somewhere in 5.12-/12 range. The next pitch looked even harder. I don't know the name, but there were bolts on the belays.

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