ropegoat Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 (edited) hey all, was at Ozone last Saturday (took a while to post this), and climbed Masterpiece Theater (just talked to the partners we were on House of Pain) as part of the day. As we were cleaning, I helf the rap line under tension so my partner could clean the bolts under the small roof, and as he grabbed the draw on the first bolt, the nut popped off. Bolt still in the wall, hanger now on the biner. The hanger looked new, and the bolt seemed solid as we clipped it. while you don't really really NEED the very first bolt, I thought it was nice the the FA party put one there... so spare the commentary on how over bolted Ozone is- I know, I don't care, I just want a straight answer. I've never placed a bolt, so I don't really know the protocol for this sort of thing, but currently the hanger is missing, and I feel responsible for it. I'm happy to replace it, but don't want to do a crappy job, who should I talk to/how should I replace this? What's the standard size for a nut out there (or do I wander out with a whole selection)? Is it kosher to just put a new hanger and new nut on the existing bolt? Thanks Edited April 10, 2009 by ropegoat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 3 of the dudes put that up post here all the time. Kevbone, Crimper and MarkD. They can tell you the bolt size. I think it's a 3/8-16 stainless steel wedge anchor. If it is, get a 3/8-16 Esna Nut stainless steel, put the flatwasher then the hanger on (Flatwasher is not critical but helps strengthen the hanger) then thread the nut on the stud and with a torque wrench, torque it down to 25-30 foot lbs. If it's the larger 1/2-13 stud, torque it to 50-60 foot lbs. The alternate method is get a standard stainless steel nut and use loctite. ___________________________________________________________ Good luck! ps - here is the spec sheet on that wedge anchor. It is most likely this US Anchor brand as that's what was pretty prevalent, however, if you know it's a Powers drop (or any other check their web site) the torque down to 20 foot lbs for a 3/8" bolt, or better to consult their web site rather than my poor memory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 Trying this in a larger version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 Grrr: same! This must be Porters fault. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 it's bush's fault.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
112 Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 I hel[d] the rap line under tension so my partner could clean the bolts under the small roof... Clean the draws, leave the bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Argus Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 This thread should be titled popped nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ropegoat Posted April 10, 2009 Author Share Posted April 10, 2009 (edited) All- After talking to my partners I realized I reference the wrong route. We were actually on House of Pain, which is quite removed from Masterpiece. My fault to all- everything else stands the title was intentionally not titled "popped nut" cause I knew all you perverts out there would go nuts. Billcoe- thanks for the great info, I'll try to replace it this weekend. 112- yes, thanks for the grammatical correction, I'm not actually as dumb as a type, but I also don't spend all day thinking about the phrasing of my cc.com posts. (joking). Pink- it's clearly Bush's fault, blame is well placed. Edited April 10, 2009 by ropegoat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 All- After talking to my partners I realized I reference the wrong route. We were actually on House of Pain, which is quite removed from Masterpiece. My fault to all- everything else stands the title was intentionally not titled "popped nut" cause I knew all you perverts out there would go nuts. 100 percent bone all the bone and nothing but the bone. (ie, thats Kevins route) It's funny Kevbone lives on this site and hasn't checked in on this thread to tell us the size of the installation, lets change the title and see if he see's it. That should rile him all up. However, the odds of it being a 3/8-16 stainless steel US anchor brand goes up to @ 90 percent I believe. Making your job easier. If you need anything from me, like a few of these Esna nuts, let me know I'll figure out how to get you a few. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 Kevin says it's a Fixe 12mm bolt! Do don't go running up there with a 3/8" nut or you're screwed! 12mm NUT only! Probably a standard 1.75 thread, tighten to approximately 44 lbs/ sq ft. have a nice day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimper Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 hey kevbone, post up and tell us the history behind your installation of this bolt. this hanger first came off in my hand over 3 years ago, while on lead (freaky!!!), but i thought you had fixed it after that incident. you also told me then that you had trouble tightening the nut, and maybe your story will help prevent other bogus hanger jobs from going up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony_Bentley Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 Sometimes the lock washer is forgotten when installing the nut How about some locktite and a lock washer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 NUTS! Saturday at 9am on the Ozone trail. Washer and hanger as well. No Loctite, evidently some things you just have to have yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ropegoat Posted April 22, 2009 Author Share Posted April 22, 2009 Billcoe- much thanks for putting the supplies there, I will bring my own torquewrench and loctite. Sorry I haven't been out there recently- stupid professional exams get in the way of climbing... hoping to get it done this Monday. Many apologies to everyone eagerly awaiting it's installation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 (edited) Welcome, however, I should have just gone and hung at the Zone and done the work cause I went elsewhere and Kyle pushed me down and this happened. Still hobbling, still have stitches, still swollen, still hurts. ps, I heard that the new hanger/nut was put on. Edited April 22, 2009 by billcoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ropegoat Posted April 22, 2009 Author Share Posted April 22, 2009 Big THANKS to whomever put that on- that prevents me from screwing it up (again). Someone took note of the fact that I started this post with "I've never placed a bolt before..."- might have indicated I was not the best person to be doing so. Billcoe- tsk tsk, that looks like a serious owwie. Hope that heals up quick. See you out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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