Southern Pickets

[Jim]

I'm soon off to the Pickets for a 9 day climbing trip. Anyone have information on crossing "The Barrier" from Terror Creek basin camp?

Also, we're going to do the west ridge of Inspiration Peak and I'd like to keep the rack to a minimum. Any beta on the pro?

Other peaks in the plan include Terror, the Chopping Block, Degenhardt, and the east and west peaks of McMillian Spire.

[mikeadam]

Jim,

Try emailing Geordie Garomer <garomer@aol.com> or Tim Matsui <http://timmatsui.com/contact.htm> for semi-recent beta on chopping block and other peaks in that area.

Mike

[This message has been edited by mikeadam (edited 07-24-2001).]

[Mr._Blister]

E-mail me off line for info on the Barrier, The Chopping Block, and W. Peak of McMillan Spire. It's been 14 years since I was up there, but maybe I can help somewhat.

John Sharp

[Tod]

I haven't been up the via Terror creek before but, I have been up via the creek just south of Terror creek that affectionatly (sp?)called "Over and Up" creek. It was many years ago, but at the time there was a decent climbers trail that led up to treeline so that you could traverse north towards the glacier.

From the looks of it, this is an approach that deals with terrain that is not as steep as the Barrier route and would seem to require less routefinding and time.

The West Ridge of Inspiration does not require much gear. If your comfortable on exposed Class 4 and low 5th, then a fairly light rack will probably do well. As you get part way up, you'll probably want to take a route on the left side of the gulley. This seems less chossy and exposed than the route directly up the gulley (and less technical). When you reach the ridge there is a variation that goes out onto the north face that is Class 3-4. It's hidden, but fairly easy. The route pictured in the Becky guide that is more direct up the final summit block (5.7?) probably will require more gear to carry in on the approach, but is probably more interesting. Regardless, the whole setting on Inspiration is incredible...

Tod