LostCamKenny Posted March 21, 2009 Posted March 21, 2009 and 'fore you get angry joe, let me say that, in the eventuality the park was closed, the best way for us climbers to let the s side still stay undisturbed during hte peregrine season would be to make the north side a realistic playground - the biggest obstacle to me seems keeping it safe for the tourists, as developing anything near the summit would seem potentially wicked dangerous for folks at the base - there'd have to be a buncha folks involved when cleaning up there i'd wager...but on the other hand you wouldn't have to worry about pissing off the train folks! but on the other hand you wouldn't have to worry about pissing off the train folks! Nope....just the sensitive moss folks! Nope....just the sensitive habitat folks! Dude, you're being a bit swishy on the liberal / environmental front there... We all lose if Beacon closes - then everyone can be pissed off! Quote
pink Posted March 21, 2009 Posted March 21, 2009 but on the other hand you wouldn't have to worry about pissing off the train folks! Nope....just the sensitive moss folks! Nope....just the sensitive habitat folks! Dude, you're being a bit swishy on the liberal / environmental front there... moss are people too.... Quote
ivan Posted March 21, 2009 Author Posted March 21, 2009 moss are people too.... and not just any kind of people! Quote
pink Posted March 21, 2009 Posted March 21, 2009 i've never put a nylon brush on anything that closely resembles that on beacon rock.... Quote
denalidave Posted March 22, 2009 Posted March 22, 2009 I used to know a girl in Alaska that only used moss for her sanitary napkins, she swore by the stuff. I'll have to try it out during my next special time. Quote
ivan Posted March 22, 2009 Author Posted March 22, 2009 i've never put a nylon brush on anything that closely resembles that on beacon rock.... yeah, but i bet that piece of moss would respond a whole helluva a lot more positively to such a treatment Quote
wrangler Posted March 23, 2009 Posted March 23, 2009 hey Ivan. some more info about siege tactics... it can be aided cleanly (or free climbed) and definitely doesn't need any bolts or pins. for the traverse under the roof i use a #4 or #5 nut. on the GFA i did use one of Joseph's Lowe Balls, but on the FFA i found a placement for the nut, which i liked better (probably cause i suck at using LB). the vid shows the first attempt at getting up the route...it took 2 more tries to push it up to where the anchors are now...and another 3 goes to free it. i think it's around 12a/b. As far as i know it's waiting for a second free ascent. when i took that whipper, i was leaning back against a cam in a flaring, dirty slot. as i stood up a bit, it shifted and popped. check the slo-mo and you can see that the next piece popped too. there's a solid placement higher that i missed, but now use before crossing under the roof--i think it's a #2 bd cam. cheers, Shane Quote
ivan Posted March 24, 2009 Author Posted March 24, 2009 it can be aided cleanly (or free climbed) and definitely doesn't need any bolts or pins. nice route shane and thanx for the work - hows it look around the corner and up (i assume that's your rope)? are you planning on pushing above headspace (? isn't that the old-is-new line to the left?) double check my original comments - i wasn't saying you should add a bolt or pin, just that a pin would fit nicely in the roof crack - mike and i both aided it clean - both of us missed the nut placement though Quote
ivan Posted April 15, 2009 Author Posted April 15, 2009 returned yesterday to this fine route to work on my aid-soloing - signficantly freakier for me this way, but i'll learn - a nice fat crack at ground level serves well for an anchor at least, w/ a sketchy nut above to keep it oriented properly met the irascible denalidave, running the trail as always still don't see where to put a nut in on the traverse, but the grappling hook works just fine aided a wee bit past the anchor and looks like the next pitch will go indeed and be sweet, if ever it stops dripping Quote
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