Tool and ethical changes in the past 30 years

[Dane]

Bvilsue. I don't think I was correct as to the "four" 70 cm axes.

I may be totally off on the alpine hammers as well.

I asked Jeff to clarify what they did use for crampons, boots and tools this morning. I'll repost his answer here.

 

I was going off Dave's quote from "Ice World" as well and some old pictures I had seen. But the pictures I was thinking of were of Jeff's later solo and obviously not 70cm axes he was using there but at least one Zero bamboo hammer.

 

Then I found Jeff's picture of Mike Weiss on the 1st ascent in "Ice World" (page 33) on the 2nd pitch of Bridalveil. With some close inspection it clearly shows a long axe with wrist loops stuck in the wall for his left hand and a shorter north wall hammer with a wrist loop in his right hand.

 

to be continued

[Julian]

While this very informative thread has mostly been about tools and ethics (imagine that, given the title), I thought this was interesting to get an idea of some of the physical and mental changes that have occurred in ice and mixed climbing over the years:

 

Will Gadd - 24 Hours of Ice

 

6) You climbed a single route, The Pic of the Vic, nearly 200 times in a 24-hour period. Did that route have special significance to you before the event?

 

About 10 years ago, I did eight laps on it one day, and I was completely destroyed. I remember thinking that those eight laps were pushing the absolute limit of what's possible. Oh, how things change.

 

During the climb, I only fell off once in 194 laps. That means I should have been less secure, but I don't like falling off ice climbs...

 

Edited January 17, 2010 by Julian

[genepires]

sweet. it has got to be really hooked out now. time for me to get on it.

[Dane]

Will Gadd - 24 Hours of Ice

 

6) You climbed a single route, The Pic of the Vic, nearly 200 times in a 24-hour period. Did that route have special significance to you before the event?

 

About 10 years ago, I did eight laps on it one day, and I was completely destroyed. I remember thinking that those eight laps were pushing the absolute limit of what's possible. Oh, how things change.

 

My apologies to Julian and no disrespect to Will but a 45m WI4 no matter how many laps were done now or 10 years ago has nothing to do with the changes in ice climbing standards.

 

It does how ever point to the changes in Will's physical abilities over that 10 year period. And he has added much to the sport. This stunt wasn't a big addition.

 

Compare the comments with Guy Lacelle's 5hr solo of all three Trophy wall WI6 routes almost 10 years ago now. Or the enchainments many have been involved in that were changes made possible by tools and new mind sets. Frank Jordan's solo enchainment in 1994 comes to mind. That one still amazes and inspires me to what might be possible.

 

Read more here:

http://www.gravsports.com/Aerobic%20Pages/frankjourdan.htm