Name this Ice in Strobach

[WageSlave]

 

So what is this? We found it in Strobach, but weren't sure where we were.

[powderhound]

Were you on a flow that forms to the lookers left of Primus Suckus?

[WageSlave]

Possibly. It was to the left of this:

And two routes left of this:

[Alex]

 

So what is this? We found it in Strobach, but weren't sure where we were.

 

It's unclimbed, its the route to the right of Primus Sucks.

 

Possibly. It was to the left of this:

 

This one is also unclimbed.

 

And two routes left of this:

 

This is Unholy Baptism, aka "Second on the Left". The bottom pitch has seen an ascent, and the top pitch has been seriously tried once but backed-off of by a very skilled climber (during a season when he was running laps all over testpiece 5s). Bottom pitch is a 70m WI4. Top pitch is a full-vertical 60m 5 or 6. I installed a 2-bolt anchor at the top of the second pitch during the summertime many years ago, with the idea that I'd bolt the lower half of the second pitch to enable getting up it even in lean years, but after inspecting the rock decided it was best left alone and safe ascents would only happen if ice was covering the junk rock. Probably one of the finest routes in Washington.

 

Basically, there are four or five regularly forming routes left of Separation Gully. One usually doesnt form, so in normal years there are only 4. But whatever. From left to right, as you approach from 609 road, it's Primus Sucks, Unclimbed, Unclimbed, Unholy Baptism, and First on the Left. Seperation Gully. Then Sudden Change of Plan, Sad Ce'bu, Right Stuff, Dropline....etc....

 

So yeah, you've got pics of essentially 3 FAs there, afaik....

 

Alex

Edited February 19, 2009 by Alex

[WageSlave]

Shit, we shoulda finished it up then instead of rolling out to catch the last of the sun. Thanks for the info. I wish it wasn't gonna be so warm over there this week.

[Alex]

For sure, you were halfway up it!

[Lub]

F*@%, I hate hiking, but I guess I better go back...

[powderhound]

And two routes left of this:

 

this is Primus Suckus...

 

When I was there last weekend...we climbed first on the left...and could see primus suckus...there was nothing between the two climbs. But I do remember a flow to the left of primus suckus.

Edited February 19, 2009 by powderhound

[Alex]

And two routes left of this:

 

this is Primus Suckus...

 

When I was there last weekend...we climbed first on the left...and could see primus suckus...there was nothing between the two climbs. But I do remember a flow to the left of primus suckus.

 

No, it isnt. Please see my previous post. Primus Sucks is the left-most route on the entire cliff; the first route you encounter as you approach from 609 (which means coming from the northwest), or the *last* route you encounter coming the other way, from "First on the Left". The route in your quote above is "Second on the Left" in the book, which we're calling Unholy Baptism.

[ryland_moore]

I will back Alex up on this. This is not Primus. It is Unholy Baptism (albeit thin). We were the first ones to climb the first pitch in January 2007. The second pitch was throwing deathcicles down on us as we topped out the first pitch. I believe there was another go at it the next weekend, but the second pitch has still never been climbed. It is burly. Overhanging ice and steep with little to no rest. It also looks longer than it appears (both pitches).There is a tree off to the left of the first pitch which you can easily rappel from or walk off the ledge system and down.

[Lub]

...anyone interested in going out there friday?

[kevino]

how about saturday?

[Lub]

would like to, but i can't leave town this weekend. so i was thinking about taking friday off and leaving thursday night. ...id like to get back there...