Wallowas: Rock Quality

[vert]

Cool to see the interest. It is true that i backed off the matterhorn west face, but the line I attempted was a differant variation from the left hand route. I managed to free an alternative start after akward drilling of two bolts and making some scared moves on rotten, wet rock. I have been thinking of that face ever since (that was in 88') and believe it would make a killer winter mixed route; a burley undertaking given the approach exposure and remoteness. Maybe a fly by would be in order, it could save a lot of energy. I have been climbing on that rock type a lot and it is definitely better/more secure when frozen. It is permeable!! It would be a good adventure! Mark H.-

[shapp]

My memory on the location of the Green stone/dihedrals was a bit off. It is here, info was published on this site was published in a hiking guide to the Wallowas from the early 1990s with a somewhat inaccurate topo. The locaton is below. This is one of the easiest crags to get to in the Wallowas that I know of. Try this place out, if it isn't to your liking, you probably won't like the rest.

 

Hiking Oregon's Eagle Cap Wilderness gives some directions and the photo. Hike up the trail, cross the creek head up the trail uphill at second switchback (head off trail up the creek to the crag) Used to be some cairns several years ago.

 

Map Center: N45.22555° W117.24026° Datum: NAD83

 

There are some bolts up there, but unless they have been recently upgraded they should be treated as suspect.

Edited February 17, 2009 by shapp

[shapp]

Dave Jensen's and Coughlin's route on Benthos was freed by Elmo Hendricksen and Mark Hauter in October 1988 (from the mans own report in Climbing) at 5.10d named the Bachleor Party