CTAC Posted January 30, 2009 Posted January 30, 2009 Trip: Shuksan - 1960 Route Date: 1/25/2009 Trip Report: This Sunday, January 25, Roger Lewis, Steve Murphy, and myself, Stanislav Zinkov, climbed 1960 route on Shuksan. We couldn't find a whole lot of info on the route so we rated it Grade III, Class 5.4, AI3. The approach was easy via White Salmon Creek. We witnessed a huge avalanche on Hanging Glacier. The higher we went the less consolidated the snow got. Eventually we got to the base of the route, three hours after leaving the parking lot. There we climbed three pitches of ice and rock. The ice was so thin I set only one screw total. Meanwhile, I used a lot of cams, stoppers, and tri-cams. We then un-roped and climbed 200 ft of steep snow afterwards. By that time we ended up on top of Hanging Glacier. From there we navigated around a couple of crevasses and were right below the summit pyramid. Winds picked up and there was a lot of spin drift; we decided to call it a day. The descend on White Salmon Glacier seem to never end. Eventually we had to endure the stairmaster up to the bottom of Chair 8. Overall it took us 16 hours. Gear Notes: Mostly rock gear: two camps, a set of small stoppers, and a set of tri-cams. Approach Notes: Bring snowshoes or skies. Right below the Hanging Glacier a lot of avalanche debris covered by a thin layer of snow and you will risk twisting a leg while punching throw between chunks of ice. Quote
dberdinka Posted January 30, 2009 Posted January 30, 2009 Great photos and nice climb. Seems like there might be a lot of nice moderate, mixed climbs on that flank of Shuksan. Quote
WageSlave Posted January 30, 2009 Posted January 30, 2009 That looks like a sweet climb. Nice job. Quote
sukiakiumo Posted January 30, 2009 Posted January 30, 2009 Sweetness. Saw you guys on your ascent and was glad that none of the avys or ice-falls that we heard several times got you. That looks fun! Quote
DetachedFlake Posted January 30, 2009 Posted January 30, 2009 I think there are a ton of potential lines between the NE butt and the NW rib. Sadly, the snow isn't consolidating into good ice in the corners at the moment, but if yer looking for some good moderate climbing to dull your crampons on, it's great. As I remember it, Stani, you used more micronuts than anything. Cracks tended to be pretty small. There also appear to be some cool looking pure ice and mixed lines closer to the ski area. Haven't scoped them out up close yet. Quote
DRep Posted January 30, 2009 Posted January 30, 2009 Good goin boys! We saw you guys on it while we were descending the glacier. You must've had a late start, I think it was 3:00pm when we saw you low on the route. Looks better in your pictures than it does from the glacier. Good conditions on that peak last weekend for sure. Quote
AlpineK Posted January 31, 2009 Posted January 31, 2009 That is a nice line and cool photos. Maybe next time. Quote
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