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Posted

I know it is quite a ways off, but I have my sights on the Left Side Northwest Dihedral on Mt. Washington. Currently I have no partner, the route is 4 pitches and goes at 5.6 with the last pitch being a scramble (see Oregon High). I am looking now, so that if someone is interested we can get out on the rock a few times (smith or beacon perhaps) before tying in on a mountain. PM me if interested or email: jcrawfor@uoregon.com

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Posted

If you do a search on this site for Mt. Washington TRs, you'll find a discussion of how the west face has changed due to rock fall. Check it out before you go b/c there has been 1 or 2 accidents up there.

Posted

Yeah I saw the report on King Rat being gone, as the west face had a large slab shed a few years back, but I wasn't aware it affected this route, I'll definitely do some more research before I am totally set on it.

 

That said, has anyone been up to attempt a west face route recently? Any clue as to how severely the Oregon High routes have been affected?

 

And perhaps this thread should be moved to the Oregon Cascades, or Rock Climbing...

Posted

I climbed the w face back in 1999 or so. I'm glad I didn't fall. The last steep pitch on the white rock before getting into the upper lower-angle stuff is high quality. Getting to it is less so. It would be wise to be climbing several numbers higher than the route ratings.

Posted

Cobra, thanks, sounds like the Oregon High ratings may be quite stiff, I'll will consider that for sure. But, I suppose I should be more route specific. I am NOT interested in the West Face route, at all; it seems too committing and dangerous for what I'm looking for. Rather I am interested to hear if anyone has done or is interested in climbing the NW Dihedral-left side.

Also if you have photos of that side of the mountain and could post them I would appreciate it a lot.

Posted

Consider sending OldManRock (Gary Kirk) a PM. He would have as good idea as anyone and if you reread your Oregon High you'll find his name on a few of the FAs on most of the OR volcanoes :)

Posted

also consider just not climbing it - the mtn pretty much blows - i did the west ridge back in 2004 and it was alright, but not worth getting wasted on the uber-crap rock there though - there's too much good rock in the world to go slopping around on garbage, no?

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