mkporwit Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 (edited) Trip: The Tooth - South Face Date: 1/19/2009 Trip Report: My friend Larry and I decided to take advantage of the nice weather and bag the Tooth. Gene's recent TR only added to the stoke. We planned on doing an overnight trip, so we headed up Sunday afternoon. We dug ourselves a nice snow cave in the basin below the climb and hit the sack. Monday was a pretty leisurely start. We got to the base of the route a little after nine. As Larry was getting ready to lead the first pitch we saw two other climbers come up. Turns out it was peakpimp and a friend. Most of the climb was pretty uneventful, as the south face is mostly free of snow. There is some deep slush in the trees above the second pitch, and the summit has snow leading down to the rap gully. The start of the south face The final, short pitch to the summit. The slushy snow is below Rapping off the summit towards the rap tree We also found some ice that looked to be in shape and pretty fat. Saw a couple of climbers on Sunday on what I think was the base of Bryant. The ice on Bryant(??). Instead of turning left to head up towards the basin, follow the winter trail until you run into the headwall Overall a great outing in almost perfect conditions. Go get some before the next weather system moves in. Pics to follow once I upload them to flickr. Gear Notes: Crampons/Ice axes helpful but not necessary to get from the basin to the start of the route and back down. Approach Notes: There's a pretty good boot track, at least until the next snow storm. Edited January 20, 2009 by mkporwit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 Right on, Porwit. That's a classic climb and to climb it in January is most classic. There's a pretty good boot track, at least until the next snow storm. This is the kind of beta that we like to see! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peakpimp Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 It was very nice to meet you and Larry up there MK! How about that weather? Amazing!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkporwit Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 I should add that right now there's a pimp snow cave up there in the hanging valley. If anyone wants to run up there some evening, then hit the climb at first light and be back in time for breakfast, it's all yours. Should be pretty easy to spot heading up towards Pineapple Pass. Your domicile for the evening, should you chose to take advantage of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkporwit Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 Good running into you too, Josh. Amazing weather, except for that damn wind. Made rapping down with doubles a bitch, as they got tangled on us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 I will add that MP just came off a weekend of cragging in the icicle including some survival practice sleeping out in the low 20's with no tent or sleeping bag ... and still sacked up to climb another day rather than opt for home and a hot shower (I chose the latter). Good job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crillz Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 :tup: for that snow cave. That thing was awesome. Glad you guys made it down safely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkporwit Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 Ah, so that was you with peakpimp? Cool, good running into you. Yeah, that rope clusterfuck with the doubles near the top was a bit of a pain. Thanks for yarding the rope more in line. Marcin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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