Spantiks and crampons?

[Dane]

I suspect this applies to any really big boot as well.

 

I wear a 46 Spantik and have a really hard time getting crampons to fit properly to them. For those that haven't seen them, Spantiks have a big rocker and a huge sole profile compared to most single boots. Gone though a bunch of different crampon styles trying to get a good fit.

 

Some of the modern crampons aren't wide enough under the forfoot to really perform correctly on these boots. On others the sizing seemed just a bit off. Enough so I wouldn't want to use most crampons on these boots on a difficult terrain. Not happy with the 'pons I was able to fit up "right" so I kept playing with the boots and the several pairs and styles of 'pons I own.

 

Turns out what made all the difference was the heels on my particular boote were ground with a bevel to the outside of the boot sole. Rear bales and 'pon length sizing was really hard if not impossible to get right. I finally noticed the problem on the sole. It took 5 minutes on my bench grinder to change the bevel to the inside.

 

Most crampons should now fit to my satisfaction and my own crampons fit perfectly. Most importantly to me I can get a pair of Dartwins on them.

 

I suspect a close inspection of any boot sole is worth a look if you plan on using clip on 'pons and are having problems.

 

Hope this helps someone else down the road. It has been bugging me since last year on the Spantiks.

[Frikadeller]

If you watch that little gear video on the patagonia website, that guy House or something like that showcases his gear used on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat.

 

He was using Spantiks, and his crampons where Grivel G12. Dunno what size his boots where, but you should try those...They apparently fit his boots.

[Dane]

Thanks for the idea, I finally squared mine away. The heels were ground with a bevel to the outside which was keeping them from fitting any crampon correctly. Took 5 minutes on a grinder once I figured it all out. Now just about any crampon works fine evn in the bigger size. Hopefully that might help someone else if the problem comes up.

 

Spantik and House on Nanga Parbat?

 

Actually they didn't use Spantiks on Nanga Parbat but the Sportiva Nuptse.

 

 

There was a good picture of House on the summit of the Rupal face on the old Grivel NA website. He was obviously using the Nuptse in the picture. I've seen the video a couple of times and noted he never says he used the Spantik on Nanga Parbat (although it is certainly implied imo) just that he likes a double boot and how to keep them clean. The rest of the gear was specific to his and Anderson's Nanga Parbat climb.

 

Last I checked House was sponsored by Sportiva....always good to promote the newest product

 

pictures from Nanga Parbat

 

 

 

Here is the video again :

 

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6682751795170095622

[Frikadeller]

I watched the video again since you posted it...]

 

 

Those are Spantiks.

 

 

With G12 Newmatic crampons...

 

 

But you're right, that's not what he climbed with....

 

 

 

Damn you La Sportiva, and your sponsorships!

[DPS]

Does Steve House remind anyone else of John Foggerty?

[Ade]

I have the same issue with my Vasque Ice 9000's. The heel on the Charlet Sarken's was too narrow for those boots. I've always had good luck with the BD Sabretooth's they're a beefy (heavy) crampon but seem to fit my large boots/feet.