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Retrosaurus

Dan's Dreadful Direct restored

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I would like to extend my thoughts regarding bolting in general. First of all, if you must place a bolt do a proper job. Make sure it will remain in good condition for years to come. I have no problem with doing that on rappel or whatever it takes.

 

Second, if a climb has available protection, no matter how "out there", please reconsider your decision to place a bolt. The most inspiring climbs I have done or just looked at in awe are the really difficult BOLD climbs that require imagination. Please do not destroy the possibility that there will be someone with the vision and ability in the future who will be able to do the climb in its most natural state. Instead, you might look inside yourself and ask if you are willing to commit yourself to the physical and mental training necessary to do the climb. Get inspired and train on similar well protected harder routes or boulder problems until you have the ability to give it a go. Rehearse it if you must. Leave a legacy of inspiration for others to follow.

 

Small RP's and similar gear can take falls. I know this from personal experience, a lot of personal experience. If you can break through the mental barrier, then you only need to deal with the climbing itself. Use the energy of your fear to climb smoothly and beautifully, anything less will lead to failure.

 

I am saddened to think that someone would take upon themselves to create a "sport route" bolt ladder up an existing statement of bold climbing. I am also saddened to think that in the rush to put up a first ascent that someone would reduce the climb to a sport route when it is really waiting for someone to be totally committed. No, I'm not suggesting creating suicide routes, but I am suggesting that with modern training and climbing culture that it seems there may be a rush to eliminate long runouts or eliminate the mental and physical skill and strength necessary to place gear on lead.

 

The essence of extreme climbing is all about resting in the most inobvious places, and expanding your vision of available holds and how they can help you move. Doing that on a climb that has I high fear factor also requires controlling your fear so that your vision doesn't narrow. How many times have you been desparately hanging on, trying to place a piece of protection, only to find that while your strength was failing that once you clipped into the protection you could relax...only to see a large ledge out to the left that allows you to stem across and drop your hands for a total rest? Tunnel vision created by fear does that. It is the control of fear in addition to the climbing that makes such bold climbs so inspiring to me. I hope they are also inspiring to you.

 

By the way, directly below ROTC on Midnight Rock, to the right of the right facing dihedral, there is a vertical to overhanging face that always inspired me with its possibilities for a really radical face and flake climb. Has anyone ever tackled that one? That would be awesome.

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In Mr. Lepeska's three posts on this board, I don't think I've ever read anything more eloquent or salient. Thank you for a sorely-missed, considered viewpoint.

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Ditto what Sobo said, thanks for your input Lepton. Hearing it straight from the FA's mouth is exactly what the sport needs, thanks so much for taking your time to formulate your position into such clear, considered, polite language. thumbs_up.gif

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