Need advice on mountaineering boot for kathmandu

[Roach]

I will be attending the Classic Everest Base camp trek which is a 13 day trek up to the Everest base camp. It will be my first time doing a trek like that and need advice on purchasing my first mountaineering boot.

Edited November 13, 2008 by Roach

[Mtguide]

Depending on the season, many trekkers, as well as climbers, use a lightweight trail or approach shoe, or even running or trail running shoes with an agressive tread, for the hike in to Everest base camp, NOT a heavy mountaineering boot. The most important criteria is comfort and light weight, as well as durability. If you're going with a trekking guide service, you might ask them what they recommend. Also consult the various catalogs of climbing boot and shoe makers, such as La Sportiva, Lowa, Asolo, Koflach, Salomon, Vasque, etc., and communicate with their staff online for advice. They can recommend what will be most suitable for you based on your size and weight, how much you'll be carrying, any particular foot problems you may have, and whether or not you intend to do any actual climbing beyond just hiking. It might also be useful to find someone who's actually done the trip, although each individual will have their own needs and preferences.

 

The main thing is that the hike in to Everest base camp does not automatically require a pair of high tech heavy mountaineering boots.

 

 

[Roach]

Thank you for your answer it's appreciated

[Bug]

The answer above is very good.

I would add that there are a lot of really great boots that are just as durable and warm and dry as classic light leather boots but weigh much less.

So you can have a very light boot that can handle hiking in wet snow and still be light enough to wear in warmer climates.

Consider how warm your feet stay. What kind of socks you use.

Gators help a lot.

For me, I wear a light summer hiking boot on Rainier with gators and my feet just get a little cold. If I wear a heavier boot on a short trip up there, my feet sweat so much that my feet get cold the next day anyway from wet boots. I use vapor barriers sometimes and that might be another consideration for you if you decide to go with a lighter boot.

There are also really good wool/nylon socks and liners out now that just bake my feet. Liner, vapor barrier, heavy sock, boot, gator. You can get slippage if your boot doesn't fit well so experiment.

[Mtguide]

Thanks,Bug, for your comments, and your focus on socks and gaiters, which I completely spaced. And yes, there are some excellent lightweight boots that give a lot more protection in snow and wet conditions. I forgot to mention Scarpa and Merrell, among the boot manufacturers, and they both have some really great lightweight boots. And I use both knee-high and lower ankle-type gaiters, depending on what kind of boot or shoe I'm wearing. Even if you don't need them for snow, they're great for keeping out dirt and gravel, pine needles,etc.

 

Your system (liner sock, vapor barrier,heavy sock, etc.) is identical to what I do,except that I don't use the vapor barrier. I started using silk, later poly liners, in the 60's because mountaineering socks were mostly rough, itchy ragwool. As the socks got better, I continued to use them with socks like Merino wool, Ultimax, etc. It seems, for me at least, to provide an extra layer of air which works kind of like a breathable layer, and I seldom seem to have a problem with getting cold feet because of being too wet. I also usually use foot powder to help keep my feet dry. The other downside of having damp or wet feet is that it softens your skin and that can make it easy to get blisters, even in really comfortable boots. That happened to me once descending Hood, wearing a very well used, comfy pair of Koflachs.

 

 

 

 

[mattp]

Two factors that may influence your choice of footwear are the rest of your itinerary and your budget.

 

If you are on a year-long-discover-the-world trip you will likely be on a tight budget and you should know that you don't HAVE TO spend money on shoes for the Khumbu hike. I've seen German tourists crossing snowfields at 17,000' with wool socks pulled over their sandals for traction and they made it with all toes intact. Had weather been poor or there was a lot of new snow, these particular trekkers would have been willing to sit it out in a tea house for several days, however. This may not be your plan.

 

If you are going there for this particular destination and if you have some pennies to spare, good shoes will treat you well.

[Roach]

Wow thank you all for your great comments I really appreciated.

 

I found a local shop in my town that specialized in mountaineering and backpacking gear I gave them a call and got some good tips. I will soon drop by their shop to have a look at their boot selection.

 

I found a few on the net that look interesting. Tell me what you think, here's the list:

 

Vasque Zephyr Tech

 

Vasque Zephyr II

 

Zamberlan Vioz GT GORE-TEX

 

La Sportiva Trango Trek 2 GORE-TEX

[Layback]

Except for the Vasque Zephyr Tech they all look reasonable. I trekked to EBC last year via Gorak Shep and those would have done just fine. If at some point you want to get into mountaineering, you'll want to upgrade. The boots you selected would also serve you well in the Daks and the Greens, not too far from your casa.

 

When you say the "standard way" are you going via Gokyo Ri or Gorak Shep?

[Roach]

From what the Adventure company is saying in the document I got from them it's via Goyko Lakes and the Cho La .

 

And there's the La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo Light GORE-TEX that I like too which is rated more like a mountaineering boot. The only thing is I wonder if I need such a boot.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 18, 2008 by Roach

[Bug]

These all look good for different reason that you need to assess.

 

Vasque Zephyr Tech. Basically a high top tennis shoe but with better soles for protecting bottom of foot. Would not be very good for climbing (3rd class and up)

 

Vasque Zephyr II. Similar to above but with more weight and warmth. Still not a climbing boot (but maybe that doesn't matter to you? Except that you said in you initial post that you are looking for a "Mountaineering boot").

 

Zamberlan Vioz GT GORE-TEX. Just a little heavier and warmer but still not a boot designed for climbing.

 

La Sportiva Trango Trek 2 GORE-TEX. Very similar to the Zamberlan.

La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo Light GORE-TEX. This is an excellent climbing boot. Might be a little stiff for long hiking.

Also look at these, Scarpa Charmoz GTX Mountaineering Boots http://www.rei.com/product/748422

 

The difference I am pointing out between the Scarpas I listed and the La Sportivas you listed is the toe welt. The La Sportivas you listed will take a neumatic crampon. The Scarpas I listed will not take neumatic crampons, just strap-on crampons. Strap ons are great for general glacier and lower angle snow and ice. If you get into steeper ice you will want neumatics because they become a rigid part of your boot whereas strapons almost always move a little bit. - slippage between the crampon and boot = not good.

 

Both boots have a steep welt and consistent tread to make edging on rocks easier. The first few boots you listed have big isolated lugs on the soles in some cases and in all cases have too many rounded corners making standing on a thin edge on a rock more difficult.

[Roach]

The Scarpa Charmoz GTX and La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo Light GORE-TEX are the style of boot that I spotted first but then I saw on the gear list from the KE adventure company that a good light boot but no too heavy is recommended. So I started looking for something lighter but I was still coming back to La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo Light GORE-TEX model and similar model In other brand so Kind of confused. The only thing I'm afraid is if I get something like the la sportiva and scarpa boot it will be overkill for the kind of walking we will be doing all the way up to the Everest base camp.

I tried looking to see if any body else did the trip before and had posted a review of the trip but did not find one.

 

But thanks a lot for your opinion on the other boots it just confirmed what I was thinking my self about those models.

 

[Bug]

I have a pair of these or actually, the next model lighter, from five years ago. http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Asolo-Mens-Fugitive-GTX-Boot_88515_10208_10000001_-1_

I like them a lot.They take strap on crampons well and climb rock pretty well as approach boots go.

 

Like the review at the bottom, I bought em and hiked up Rat creek to do the Mole and hiked back out. No hot spots or blisters. I have a wide foot.

[Roach]

Look like a good boot I will have to see if they have it here at my local shop to try them on.

[mtnhippy]

In my experience, the lighter the boot/shoe, the more rocks you will feel through the sole. I've had some very sore feet from long, rocky treks in lightweight shoes/boots. Just my two cents.

[Roach]

It’s a good thing to keep in mind thank you for mentioning that. I sure don't want that as I will be hiking for 13 day's between 5 to 8 hours a day so sore feet is not good.

Edited November 19, 2008 by Roach