pink Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 i like using an "alpine fifi". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 10, 2008 Author Share Posted November 10, 2008 ivan, do you use an adjustable fifi or anything like that? nope - should i? geoff's got a cool hi-speed guy w/ 2 hooks, 1 long, 1 short - he tells me an adjustable fifi is much better for seconding/jugging and dealing w/ pulling gear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 Ivan....try rapping in from the top and cleaning it with a hammer. If that "panel" is loose, it needs to come off so as to not kill someone. The panel is loose, and has been aided and / or free climbed as is by McGown & partner, myself, and my partner Jim Tangen-Foster. Under absolutely no circumstances should it be deliberately "cleaned" by anyone. You have no idea what you're even talking about to even make such a comment. Anyone incapable of climbing through leaving it intact - be it aid or free - should leave the line to people who can... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 (edited) i like the one hook set up, for me it's best to keep it simple when aid climbing, gotta enough crap hanging from me. you should try this system, really can help testing sketch pro. and don't look at he pieces when you test them. and the hook speeds things up. Edited November 10, 2008 by pink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 10, 2008 Author Share Posted November 10, 2008 Anyone incapable of climbing through leaving it intact - be it aid or free - should leave the line to people who can... okay, but you don't really know if you're incapable of leaving it intact until you try and fail though, right? as i said, i have no plans on wounding the beacon-wand - i have so far not been responsible for any gaint mass-wasting effects on the monolith, so i reckon that makes me qualified enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 10, 2008 Author Share Posted November 10, 2008 i like the one hook set up, for me it's best to keep it simple when aid climbing, gotta enough crap hanging from me. you should try this system, really can help testing sketch pro. and don't look at he pieces when you test them. i hear you on the keep it simple idea, that's why i haven't suffered from fifi-envy when hanging out w/ geoff how does have an adjustable fifi help testing sketch pro? seems like bounce testing it ougha be good enough, though i guess the piece that blew adn threw me had survived a bounce test (and my body weight too for at least 10 seconds or so) i know of course not to look at the pro when testing it - i was observing the rule by breachign it! - the problem was the piece was a lowe-ball and i've still yet to really comprehend how they work or when i can trust them, so was eyeballing precisely to try to understand how it was fitting - i usually jsut don't use pieces i'm unfamiliar w/, but at the time that was all i could find to looked to work - i just need to fuck w/ the things at ground level hey, what other aid-pointers do you wanna give out? jugging/cleaning tips would be nice - i was wasting energy cleaning my pitch. what are the ideal lenghts for each daisy to the jug? what steps do you aim to use on your etriers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 Ivan....try rapping in from the top and cleaning it with a hammer. If that "panel" is loose, it needs to come off so as to not kill someone. The panel is loose, and has been aided and / or free climbed as is by McGown & partner, myself, and my partner Jim Tangen-Foster. Under absolutely no circumstances should it be deliberately "cleaned" by anyone. You have no idea what you're even talking about to even make such a comment. Anyone incapable of climbing through leaving it intact - be it aid or free - should leave the line to people who can... ever wonder what's in the center of beacon. ya, know the faster we tear it to pieces the sooner we will know. my guess is bats w/MONSTER COCK!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 10, 2008 Author Share Posted November 10, 2008 ever wonder what's in the center of beacon. ya, know the faster we tear it to pieces the sooner we will know. i thought it was a freaking "laser"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 The panel is loose, and has been aided and / or free climbed as is by McGown & partner, myself, and my partner Jim Tangen-Foster. So? Under absolutely no circumstances should it be deliberately "cleaned" by anyone. That is your opinion. You have no idea what you're even talking about to even make such a comment. Anyone incapable of climbing through leaving it intact - be it aid or free - should leave the line to people who can... Sounds kind of elitist to me. If there is a “loose” panel. Maybe it should come off. As far as freeing it after it comes off…..if you cant free it yourself…..maybe you “should leave the line to people who can” Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 i like the one hook set up, for me it's best to keep it simple when aid climbing, gotta enough crap hanging from me. you should try this system, really can help testing sketch pro. and don't look at he pieces when you test them. i hear you on the keep it simple idea, that's why i haven't suffered from fifi-envy when hanging out w/ geoff how does have an adjustable fifi help testing sketch pro? seems like bounce testing it ougha be good enough, though i guess the piece that blew adn threw me had survived a bounce test (and my body weight too for at least 10 seconds or so) i know of course not to look at the pro when testing it - i was observing the rule by breachign it! - the problem was the piece was a lowe-ball and i've still yet to really comprehend how they work or when i can trust them, so was eyeballing precisely to try to understand how it was fitting - i usually jsut don't use pieces i'm unfamiliar w/, but at the time that was all i could find to looked to work - i just need to fuck w/ the things at ground level hey, what other aid-pointers do you wanna give out? jugging/cleaning tips would be nice - i was wasting energy cleaning my pitch. what are the ideal lenghts for each daisy to the jug? what steps do you aim to use on your etriers? i hook my fifi onto my top piece and then do the rodeo test, that way you don't have to go through the trouble of hooking my daisy into the top piece that you are still at that the piece the rope is clipped into. and you won't risk a static fall onto your daisy. daisy falls can hurt and can rip your gear. also with hard aid i also like the four aider system along with my "alpine fifi". saves a lot of time and not reaching for your second aider as much. i broke my finger on the zodiac reaching for and aider to unclip it. my peice popped and my finger slipped into the beaner and i fell on my finger that was through the carabiner. proly a fluke but it happened. your jumar set up depends entirely on you, depends on the angle of the dangle. i like texas style when over hanging. you just gotta find what comfy for you on that, whatever length saves you the most energy. knee pads are nice to have. there so many ways tricks. i'd rather tell you in person or on the phone to make sure you understand my jibberish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 knee pads are nice to have. Pink....you just set yourself up for some real good spray on this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 my moms like three foot tall, no KP required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 Would that be called a midget pad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 midget is not the proper nomenclature kevbone. it's 'little people", my mom is from the land of the "little people". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 Ill say...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 10, 2008 Author Share Posted November 10, 2008 knee pads i figured out a long time ago! ben got me onto the 2 pairs of etriers system and i was using that this weekend - definitely nice, though i reckon makes it a hair harder to commit to goign over to free climbing with the additional weight (though you always leave a pair behidn) i think maybe jim or someone showed me the setup they had for hte adjustable fifi (is that what you're calling your "alpine fifi?") - sounds smart, i just need to see it demo'ed again - i guess you got it set to arm-length so you test it on the ideally spaced placement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 Sounds kind of elitist to me. If there is a “loose” panel. Maybe it should come off. As far as freeing it after it comes off…..if you cant free it yourself…..maybe you “should leave the line to people who can” I'd say this is just about where the posing and shittalking kicks in - given you seem to make it clear time and again you aren't interested in being one of those people... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 I'd say this is just about where the posing and shittalking kicks in - Agreed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 11, 2008 Author Share Posted November 11, 2008 I'd say this is just about where the posing and shittalking kicks in - Agreed okay - you boys can yammer at one another, but only till we get up to 1000 views and i get the little cool flamey-icon by my sweet tr, whereupon you both have to stfu kev, go get at it! i wont' even ask you if you "freed" it! i promise i won't cry eitehr if you accidentally misplace the panel (it's sketchier than meth-rage fo'shizzle!) - be prepared for plenty of scrubbing above the roof - half the reason i didn't push it after my fall was not having hte heart to clean out a ton of dirt n' brush in the rain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 Yet again, the panel has been aided and free climbed at least a half dozen times as is. If you guys can't deal with it as it is you should move on rather than comfortizing it to suit your palate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 11, 2008 Author Share Posted November 11, 2008 hey now - no need for the "you guys" bit - i said i could deal w/ as is (even looking for a partner for tomorrow - interested?) - are you seriously letting kev razz you? i warrant even his young'n's learned better by now, eh kev? you know there's no way in hell he's going anywhere near this route in the next decade and probalby just enjoys seeing you get worked up over it. that said, no sense in having an emotional attachmetn to a couple pieces of skanky rock that only get touched a couple times a decade - if i heard someone had gone up there and the shit had blown out on them, my first reaction wouldn't be "oh what dipshits they must be" and berte them but rather, "no suprise there - how long was that waiting to happen?" and ask them if they were okay. that panel is no national treasure, and the route would still be climbable, one way or the other, no matter what. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 knee pads i figured out a long time ago! ben got me onto the 2 pairs of etriers system and i was using that this weekend - definitely nice, though i reckon makes it a hair harder to commit to goign over to free climbing with the additional weight (though you always leave a pair behidn) i think maybe jim or someone showed me the setup they had for hte adjustable fifi (is that what you're calling your "alpine fifi?") - sounds smart, i just need to see it demo'ed again - i guess you got it set to arm-length so you test it on the ideally spaced placement yes on the arm length Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 (edited) that said, no sense in having an emotional attachmetn to a couple pieces of skanky rock that only get touched a couple times a decade. I have to beg to differ, I have an definite emotional attachment to any number of loose rocks out at Beacon. The high crux on Lost Warriors is over three flakes that have to be "set" before you use the lefthand one. Menopause has some loose blocks you wouldn't want to have come off and you wouldn't want to trundle either as they're the size of cars. Lots of routes are that way and you have to either be prepared to deal or not. The Valley alone is filled with big expanding flakes on numerous routes. And I have a particular emotional attachment to the Silver Crow panel, being the second climb I ever attempted at Beacon. that panel is no national treasure, and the route would still be climbable, one way or the other, no matter what. That panel makes free climbing the route up to the base of Silver Crow possible - aid may be you're thing, but if 'other way' in 'one way or the other' is aid climbing then I'd say that would be damn shame over that particular stretch of rock - it is breathtaking free climbing from the Pipeline anchor over to the top, dead-center of the Arena. (even looking for a partner for tomorrow - interested?) Would love to, but just can't pull it off at this point... Edited November 11, 2008 by JosephH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 What's on tap for this weekend...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 What's on tap for this weekend...? Diapers. Lots of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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