Good 1 day alpine routes in Montana

[scottgg]

I'll be heading through Montana in a few weeks, and I'm looking for some route recomendations for a 1-2 day alpine climb. Thanks!

[fenderfour]

We had fun in Blodgett canyon a few years ago. Shoshone spire is an easy one day climb near Missoula that goes at 5.8 for 6 or so pitches. Also in the area - Flathead and Nez Pearce spires. I think those were 5.9ish

[John Frieh]

When you going to be there dude?

 

If avy is safe:

 

California Ice

Ice Dragons

Sphinx

Longer ice routes around Cooke City

 

If it sucks:

Zack Attack

Other stuff in the canyon

 

Others?

 

[John Frieh]

Just talked to Mulkey... he says beartooths are in and good to go though it is warming up this weekend. That includes california ice (2000 feet of WI anyone?) and ice dragons.

[Bug]

We had fun in Blodgett canyon a few years ago. Shoshone spire is an easy one day climb near Missoula that goes at 5.8 for 6 or so pitches. Also in the area - Flathead and Nez Pearce spires. I think those were 5.9ish

These ratings are a little low. They would be accurate if you are honed and blazing. But if you have not been ticking off multi pitch climbs willy-nilly you might get spanked.

NW Butt Flathead goes at 5.8 if you find the right line. Otherwise expect some 10a here and there.

South Face rt on Flathead (Ballard-Evringham rt) goes at 10b but the days are getting short. That would be 10 pitches in 12 hours if you are at the base at first light.

The Afterburner is a really sweet variation of the SF route. Instead of traversing up and left to Guano ledge continue straight up to the right (east) facing corner and top out on that (10a)take small wires, pink and red tri-cams, and 2 camelots gold or bigger. The route tops out on the summit if you lead 5.11b. You will see the 3/8 bolts.

Shoshone is a good warmer-upper for Blodgett. More like 5.9 at the crux (first pitch above the huge ledge)but that is short. There are two routes to the right that go at 10c and 11a. You will see the 3/8 bolts but take a full trad rack to 3".

 

The NW butt of Nez Pierce is sweet 5.9 (Index 5.9). Another long one but a shorter approach. Make sure you don't get into the hand crack on the right side of the main corner. It has a refrigerator size loose block in it in the gray band. No one has been brave enough to go up and trundle it in the last 20 years. We wanted to but there was a party on the start of Modern Home Environment (5.10b to the ledge at the top of the splitter, 5.11b above) full trad rack. There are three other routes started on NP but they either finish as aid or stop nowhere.

 

Downstream are more buttresses with more classics. But I have to get lunch and then work.

[Bug]

There is also North Face of N Trapper. Long day. 5.9 slab near the top but the rest is a real cruise. Just be ready for a long cruise. The approach and raoute start are a little hard to describe and I have not been up there for over 20 years so I will not even try.

Basically, look at the map, figure out how to get to the base of the NF, and go to a section just left of middle.

 

 

[scottgg]

Cool thanks for the beta! I'll be through there around November 20th...

[cfire]

Scott - The Sphinx is right up your alley. Just make sure the avy danger is low. Have fun up there.

 

Chris