scottgg Posted October 30, 2008 Share Posted October 30, 2008 I'll be heading through Montana in a few weeks, and I'm looking for some route recomendations for a 1-2 day alpine climb. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted October 30, 2008 Share Posted October 30, 2008 We had fun in Blodgett canyon a few years ago. Shoshone spire is an easy one day climb near Missoula that goes at 5.8 for 6 or so pitches. Also in the area - Flathead and Nez Pearce spires. I think those were 5.9ish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted October 30, 2008 Share Posted October 30, 2008 When you going to be there dude? If avy is safe: California Ice Ice Dragons Sphinx Longer ice routes around Cooke City If it sucks: Zack Attack Other stuff in the canyon Others? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted October 30, 2008 Share Posted October 30, 2008 Just talked to Mulkey... he says beartooths are in and good to go though it is warming up this weekend. That includes california ice (2000 feet of WI anyone?) and ice dragons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted October 30, 2008 Share Posted October 30, 2008 We had fun in Blodgett canyon a few years ago. Shoshone spire is an easy one day climb near Missoula that goes at 5.8 for 6 or so pitches. Also in the area - Flathead and Nez Pearce spires. I think those were 5.9ish These ratings are a little low. They would be accurate if you are honed and blazing. But if you have not been ticking off multi pitch climbs willy-nilly you might get spanked. NW Butt Flathead goes at 5.8 if you find the right line. Otherwise expect some 10a here and there. South Face rt on Flathead (Ballard-Evringham rt) goes at 10b but the days are getting short. That would be 10 pitches in 12 hours if you are at the base at first light. The Afterburner is a really sweet variation of the SF route. Instead of traversing up and left to Guano ledge continue straight up to the right (east) facing corner and top out on that (10a)take small wires, pink and red tri-cams, and 2 camelots gold or bigger. The route tops out on the summit if you lead 5.11b. You will see the 3/8 bolts. Shoshone is a good warmer-upper for Blodgett. More like 5.9 at the crux (first pitch above the huge ledge)but that is short. There are two routes to the right that go at 10c and 11a. You will see the 3/8 bolts but take a full trad rack to 3". The NW butt of Nez Pierce is sweet 5.9 (Index 5.9). Another long one but a shorter approach. Make sure you don't get into the hand crack on the right side of the main corner. It has a refrigerator size loose block in it in the gray band. No one has been brave enough to go up and trundle it in the last 20 years. We wanted to but there was a party on the start of Modern Home Environment (5.10b to the ledge at the top of the splitter, 5.11b above) full trad rack. There are three other routes started on NP but they either finish as aid or stop nowhere. Downstream are more buttresses with more classics. But I have to get lunch and then work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted October 30, 2008 Share Posted October 30, 2008 There is also North Face of N Trapper. Long day. 5.9 slab near the top but the rest is a real cruise. Just be ready for a long cruise. The approach and raoute start are a little hard to describe and I have not been up there for over 20 years so I will not even try. Basically, look at the map, figure out how to get to the base of the NF, and go to a section just left of middle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottgg Posted November 1, 2008 Author Share Posted November 1, 2008 Cool thanks for the beta! I'll be through there around November 20th... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cfire Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 Scott - The Sphinx is right up your alley. Just make sure the avy danger is low. Have fun up there. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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