powdherb Posted October 14, 2008 Posted October 14, 2008 Trip: Southern Yosemite - many Date: 10/12/2008 Trip Report: Southern Yosemite provides the motivated climber with endless amazingly featured granite domes with dozens of sport-bolted and trad routes. My friend Matt Shutz and I went the the area this weekend to investigate some of his unfinished routes including a nice 11a ca. 150 meter route that he finished on Sat in a nice blizzard. In addition, we went to an area that provided dozes of sport-bolted routes up an amazing dome. There were about half a dozen routes ranging from 10b up to 13a? I believe. Most of the routes are 60m meters in length and offer unparalleled sport climbing on huge, steep, and clean granite faces. We finished the day by climbing the first pitch up this 11 b/c put up by Grahm. It's crazy to climb a full 60 meters of sustained hard climbing. It's like doing a 3-pitch route in one pitch. Matt finishing his project. It's interesting climbing 11a with his goddamn 40 lb bosch drill set-up when you're following. About 400 feet off the deck it began to snow. Hard. It was so warm. The route follows the right facing corner then up a central black streak. Day 2: The Dome. Grahm warming up. Cooking now. Jeff on the 11b/c I finished with. Quote
pink Posted October 14, 2008 Posted October 14, 2008 nice, nice, nice, nice, nice, nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote
billcoe Posted October 14, 2008 Posted October 14, 2008 Good looking rock. Nice pictures too, thanks for sharing! Quote
mountainmatt Posted October 14, 2008 Posted October 14, 2008 Nice Matt! Looks like some nice weather to be climbing slab in Quote
jbyers Posted October 15, 2008 Posted October 15, 2008 Hey, Is this in the "Balls" area near the AA Wilderness, or is it actually in the NP? Looks like nice climbin... may have to go check it out this May! Quote
eatsleepclimb Posted October 17, 2008 Posted October 17, 2008 I've just discovered this post from hearing about it from a friend. Anyways, i've been climbing out here for 10 years and seriously, there is no place better. I did on the slab above listed the best 5.11 face route i've ever done on granite. It's the most amazing rock!!!! Matt!!!! Quote
clintcummins Posted November 3, 2008 Posted November 3, 2008 Nice photos! The first climb is on Nightwatch (aka Ski Tracks), in The Balls area. "The Dome" = Chiquito Dome. Here's a rebolting trip report on Chiquito from June: http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/rep/08607.htm Most of the summer, it's a bit too hot to climb on Chiquito. Quote
climbinggal Posted November 20, 2008 Posted November 20, 2008 (edited) Nice pics. Good job it wasn't the middle finger you're sticking up there 'Matt' Personally, I'd prefer to second up that rock face, or else I may pass out - just a feeling I'd get due to the height and exposure; I'd be okay seconding though, except I can't climb 5.11 yet (or ever), 5.10's are my limit for seconding right now. Edited November 20, 2008 by climbinggal Quote
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