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marc_leclerc

Ice Routes

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What usually comes in through October in SW B.C or Northern Wahington? Ive heard of a route called Paymaster Couloir on Crazy Mountain, anybody know what kind of shape it would be in? What about Zero Gulley on Rideout? Colfax Peak ice routes?

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Ive heard of a route called Paymaster Couloir on Crazy Mountain, anybody know what kind of shape it would be in?

 

sounds crazy :crazy: !!! seriously though...let me know if you ever doing anything in northern washington. I'd be down for that.

 

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I think the Paymaster is fat this year, I got a glimpse of the neighbouring Plutocrat Couloir a month ago and it was in good shape

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Go up to Wedgemount Lake.

 

Start very early in the morning and climb the couloir directly above the lake outlet (I think it's on Rethel). From the summit of Rethel head along the top of the ridge towards Wedge and then drop down into the "Y Couloir" on Parkhurst (I think it's Parkhurst...not so good with names these days). Then from the top of that head down to Wedge and climb the north, northwest, or west couloir of Wedge (the west couloir has less crevasses if you're solo) and then head up to the summit of Wedge. Downclimb the north arete of Wedge. Head down to the Wedge-Weart col and go climb Weart (3rd and 4th class rock). From the summit of Weart you can continue over all of the summits and then come down closer to Mt. Cook which is all glacier free.

 

Just an idea...the "Y couloir" on Parkhurst might be a little dried out by now. This is a great link up you could do solo to avoid most of the glaciers and get a tonne of alpine ice in. It would be possible to do all of this in a very long day. Janez did most of this in a day a few years ago but he skipped the summit of Weart and returned to the hut from the Wedge-Weart col. I think he found some convoluted route down that avoided most of the glacier.

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What shape is the Kingdom Lake FSR, to access Cawallader Peak in these days? Do you think you could get reasonably close to the approach in 2WD?

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"Cadwallader Peak" is not the name of the peak. It is "Crazy Mountain". Only one person has ever called it "Cadwallader Peak" and he is a twit who has never even been on the mountain.

 

Anyways the Kingdom Lake FSR is 2wd all the way up right now.

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From Bivouac.com:

Name Notes: Originally a name "Crazy Peak" was proposed for this peak, and that name has been used in some articles. However, for encyclopedia purposes, we have adopted the name "Cadwallader Peak". The reason this name would serve us

better is that since we name regions after the highest peak, it would serve our purposes better to use the name Cadwallader Peak, such that we have a "Cadwallader Region", rather than a "Crazy Region".

 

Edited by ScottPick

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From Bivouac.com:

Name Notes: Originally a name "Crazy Peak" was proposed for this peak, and that name has been used in some articles. However, for encyclopedia purposes, we have adopted the name "Cadwallader Peak". The reason this name would serve us

better is that since we name regions after the highest peak, it would serve our purposes better to use the name Cadwallader Peak, such that we have a "Cadwallader Region", rather than a "Crazy Region".

 

Crazy Mountain was the original name we used and it was good enough for the CAJ and the AAJ.

Robin Tivy has never climbed the peak and his opinion is not shared by anyone else. In short, his reason above is spurious and mostly related to his small-penis syndrome.

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On the question of Wedge, Parkhurst etc I was there a few weeks ago and the ice is mostly gone from those routes listed so it would be a mixed climb at best with BIG moats and a sprinkle of fresh snow to hide a few pit falls. I have photos if anyone is thinking of going I can send them on for you to take a look at the conditions.

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On the question of Wedge, Parkhurst etc I was there a few weeks ago and the ice is mostly gone from those routes listed so it would be a mixed climb at best with BIG moats and a sprinkle of fresh snow to hide a few pit falls. I have photos if anyone is thinking of going I can send them on for you to take a look at the conditions.

 

how 'bout the couloir on rethel, right above the outlet of Wedgemount Lake? that seemed pretty fat back in early august, altho it always is in danger of melting out up top.

as for other ice lines, the NE couloir on Joffre was melted out in mid-august this year - very early. N face on castle towers now features about half crappy rock above the remnants of ice. i suppose the bush makes whitecap inaccessible (not that it was ever easily accessible!). getting tough to find an ice route to do lately... without heading for the Niut or Waddington ranges...

cheers,

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The north couloir on the Pleiades is continuous and looks good although the slide alders on the Red Mtn Mine road do not look at all good.

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