Effa

Hey everyone, Just getting reestablished out on the coast and am keen to find new people to get out on the ice with. I'm a student studying in Vancovuer BC so I am able to take most weeekends off so this post is hunting for anyone keen to climb this weekend, 15th-16th, and any time beyond. Rope, rack, leading WI5, working on harder leads but not as efficient as needed, seconding harder, M7ish. The Bad: No car... Anyways if you are keen to get out, pm me as we can swap numbers and go from their. Cheers Jon

As always its hard to be definitive. The central looked to be in similar conditions with a reasonable amount of snow and neve with a couple mixed steps. Getting into the couloir wouldn't be much of an issue if your climbing with someone, otherwise a couple decent slots. Topping out would probably be the crux as it looked like some what unconsolidated snow over rock. Certainly not a lot of rock showing though. Sorry no photos. Joffre would be in condition too I think (though I didn't look at it as seriously), it would be more difficult to get into though as the schrund towards that end is on the large end of the spectrum.

Trip: Joffre Peak - Twisting Couloir Date: 10/18/2008 Trip Report: Drove up to Joffre on Friday night and camped at the Cerise Creek winter lot. Moving the next morning by 0645 and made good time on the trail. The boulder field to the base of the face proved tedious given a nice veneer of frost. There was a variably supportive crust on N-NE aspect below the face with penetration to about boot top. Crossing the bergschrund was pretty straight forward, however, crossing the moat to get established in the couloir is a bit spicier. The couloir is currently a mix of neve and unconsolidated snow while the upper head wall was shin to knee deep. The decent was smooth and Joffre lingered in a pool of sunshine for the entire day though much of the surrounding area was shrouded in cloud. On S/SE aspects there is a reasonably stiff crust up to about 7500ft, and a stiff rain crust down to ~6000ft. The trail is mostly snow free with only the top bit before the hut still covered. All in all a good day though it probably would have been a bit better a few weeks ago before the last snow. Approach Notes: FSR to the summer trail head is decommissioned with all culverts and bridges removed

Consider the correction made. Anyways thanks for the info.

What shape is the Kingdom Lake FSR, to access Cawallader Peak in these days? Do you think you could get reasonably close to the approach in 2WD?

Im wondering what the conditions are like on the Spearhead right now. With cold clear weather and good avy conditions we are thinking about going up there this coming week. Thanks for the info.