[TR] Hook Creek - Exploration 9/20/2008

[AlpineMonkey]

Trip: Hook Creek - Exploration

 

Date: 9/20/2008

 

Trip Report:

This weekend’s unpromising weather window allowed us to explore some craggs closer to home. Our interest was in climbing a route on The Blockhouse, but high winds hindered this quest. This weekends cold temperatures, rain, and wind, were a clear indication that this years high alpine climbing season is coming to an end.

 

 

 

We climbed a prominent tower at the mouth of upper Hook Creek. The summit had one fixed piton/bolt and a new Madrock brand bolt. I'm interested in the history of this tower if someone knows.

 

 

Further exploration lead us to the base of “The Hook” and its known featureless 30 foot summit block, which we did not attempt to climb (rope throw and prusik?).

 

[AlpineMonkey]

Slaphappy, Rolf, Capaleni, bwrts, Tony_Bentley...someone, whats that tower called?

[Tony_Bentley]

What happened to the blockhouse idea? That thing needs a FFA.

[wolffie]

We went in there many years ago (early '80's?), climbed and scrambled the Blockhouse, did a loop up over Lost World Plateau and traversed some stuff on Temple Ridge, descended Naiad Creek(?) and out Snow Creek Trail. Nice little trip.

 

The little plateau by the Hook Creek Group is interesting, a small flattish sloping fragment of an ancient glacial landscape that somehow escaped the valley glaciers. I don't understand the geology. I recall it being covered with primary weathering product, sharp crystals that haven't been water-tumbled, felt more like mine tailings than sand. You expect a knife-edge ridge, and find this little plateau instead.

 

How does one approach Hook Creek nowadays? I think we just started at Bruce's Boulder. We used to just bivvy anywhere in Icicle Canyon before all these Private Property signs appeared ("This Land Is My Land. Not Your Land. Keep the Hell Out"). I don't like going back there 'cause it breaks my heart. I understand that there was a big fight about including Icicle in the Alpines Lakes Wilderness.

 

That high country is especially good early Oct. when the larches are yellow. Used to be, the reservation system for Enchantments was lifted about Oct. 16, good time to go if lucky with weather.

 

[clmblikeagirl]

fire in the APLINE, did you happen to notice the already detroyed and burned out vegetation surrounding you...SMART...are you an engineer?

[Kat_Roslyn]

Sweet looking pics Craig!

 

Dirtyleaf and I climbed a bit up the blockhouse a few years ago, from the NW aspect, and it was just black lichen covered slab up top.

 

I am pretty sure that other tower is crocodile fang. Dont you have a pic of me on the mole with it in the background? Or Liz on top riding it??

 

Anyway, sweet pics, I skied down hook last spring, it was great having it covered in snow there, much easier going down.

 

 

climblikeagirl: Talk about common sense, it is misting, and a boulder field, nothing is going to burn that hasn't already, and I am pretty sure he's a chemist.

 

[telemarker]

Sweet looking pics Craig!

 

Dirtyleaf and I climbed a bit up the blockhouse a few years ago, from the NW aspect, and it was just black lichen covered slab up top.

 

I am pretty sure that other tower is crocodile fang. Dont you have a pic of me on the mole with it in the background? Or Liz on top riding it??

 

Anyway, sweet pics, I skied down hook last spring, it was great having it covered in snow there, much easier going down.

 

 

climblikeagirl: Talk about common sense, it is misting, and a boulder field, nothing is going to burn that hasn't already, and I am pretty sure he's a chemist.

 

Oh, that Dirtyleaf is something else isn't he? A ski descent down Hook. Hope you had coverage.

 

Ron spoke of an east face route on the blockhouse, then contouring over onto the N. Ridge/Face. I've been by it a couple times this year and it looked fun. Here's a link to a trip Valerie and I up there earlier this year, combining the Shrew and N. Face Mole.

 

Shre and Mole TR

 

And yeah, all the adventure and dirt climbing Craig has done, I think he deserves his fires. Besides, there's nothing to freaking burn in Hook Creek anymore.

 

 

[Tony_Bentley]

Blockhouse East Face

[AlpineMonkey]

Kat,

 

I don't know what that "unknown" tower is, but it is not the Croc. Fang. This tower is prominent when looking down from the Upper Hook Creek and is the furthest tower down the ridge, even below The Hook. When viewed from looking up Hook Creek it is almost indistinguishable from its surroundings though.

 

I heard about your ski. Lot of teritory that you covered, thats impressive. You have a lot of motivation. Good to hear that your still in the area and doing stuff.

 

Some of Tony's climb was new, but not all of the pitches were. Some were done by Pete. I think I counted somewhere around 80 pitches that he has done on the Blockhouse, on all faces.

 

Liz and I once climbed the N. Face of The Mole and it was very good. Much better then the S. Face in the Nelson book. I do have a picture of someone riding the shrew somewhere, but I forget who. It may be a man w/ dreads that no longer has dreads, but I remember climbing it with Liz too.

 

[telemarker]

The Shrew is a great summit straddle! The rap chord in situ that we rapped from was nearly brand new.

[Tony_Bentley]

Craig, you are not certain of what has and has not been climbed by Doorish. You may speculate but that is all. As I stated in our email exchange, the headwall had been climbed before but the rest had not.

[AlpineMonkey]

I don't care too much, but in response to your post, yes I am sure what has and hasen't been climbed (for the most part) and yes the wall and some of your route was climbed by Doorish.

[Tony_Bentley]

What part? Maybe you could disclose this topo?

[brad]

you may have a hard time finding a name for that particular formation as it is so much smaller than the actual "rat creek group". from the south side its a climb of like 25 feet, i'm assuming this is what you did seeing as it the most natural line of travel from the camp. i don't think it was ever given much thought, just something that was done as an aside from camp, much as you did yourself. Call it something original, like"plan b tower". the madrock hanger was placed in 04 as was one on the shrew during the same trip. thats all i know and that's too bad because i was really looking forward to getting involved in the pointless ego driven banter over which pitches pete climbed and which pitches ron and tony climbed on the east face. try and remember to have a good time when your out there!

By the way, i hope your fire was warm, comfortable and very large!

Edited November 14, 2008 by brad

[Tony_Bentley]

Chill out Brad.

 

Now for another fun 'unnamed' route, I suggest the triangle at the top of Rat Creek that tops out on the mesa. 3 pitches, 5.10 and fun! This one HAS been climbed by Pete.

 

 

 

 

[telemarker]

Puff!! Nice photo. And I've heard good things about that W. Face Monkey's Head.

[ivan]

 

climblikeagirl: Talk about common sense, it is misting, and a boulder field, nothing is going to burn that hasn't already, and I am pretty sure he's a chemist.

alpine fires in safe conditions

 

i'll always cherish the dumbass look on my ra's face, that first year of college, the day that the gideons showed up and passed out free bibles to all of us on the way to class - roomie and i got like 20 of them, built a bonfire on the sidewalk outfront of our door and lit it up - ra walks by - "what are you doign?" "burning bibles - want one?" - a look of complete incomprehension - slack jaw - open mouth - furrowed brown - seconds pass in silience, marred only by crackling genesis' and exodus' - reboot - program failure - warm reboot - mangled response - "but you're going to set the sidewalk on fire" "uh...it's raining...and its concrete?"

[Bug]

What you typed is wrong.

Books don't crackle.

[Bug]

Chill out Brad.

 

Now for another fun 'unnamed' route, I suggest the triangle at the top of Rat Creek that tops out on the mesa. 3 pitches, 5.10 and fun! This one HAS been climbed by Pete.

 

 

 

 

Do you have any pics of the left facing corner from its base, or on it, or on top?