Question about climbing Hood in Oct.

[JamesT]

I understand that mid-October is not a good time of the year to climb Mt. Hood because of a lack of snow cover, increased rock fall, and potentially a lack of a safe route around its bergshrund. Nevertheless, I’m considering climbing Hood’s south face via the Hogback and through the Pearly Gates, weather permitting. And, I might climb solo. I have intermediate mountaineering skills (e.g., snow camping experience, two mountaineering courses with AAI in Bellingham, summited Baker, Icy Peak, Matterhorn, and this summer I climbed Rainier’s DC route unguided, etc.)

 

I’ll be coming from the east coast to Portland for work, so I’m looking to extend my stay to climb. However, I do not want to jeopardize unduly others or myself by climbing Hood this time of year, if considered unwise. What are your thoughts?

 

[ropegoat]

James,

 

Cycling aside, you might enjoy this most recent TR regarding current Hood conditions (perhaps you even already saw it).

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/835841#Post835841

 

We did descend the route you are considering, and saw excessive rockfall, and yes, my partner fell in a crevasse. As in all climbing, risk is part of the equation, and we all choose how much to take, especially when weighed against the potential reward. While I certainly understand and respect your passion to climb Mt. Hood, I suspect conditions will likely deteriorate into October. For me, I don't think the reward of climbing the Hogsback route is worth the risk of very out of season conditions, and I'm not sure the climbing would really be "fun". Granted, you'll be out here from the East, so it's easier for me to say that since I live here.

 

Those are my thoughts. Others will likely shoot me down.

Watch the weather, trust your gut, and put yourself in a position to get lucky.

[ivan]

you might consider doing adams s side route instead, or going up to rainier and do the emmons this time

 

you might really enjoy doing the timberline trail around mt hood in october too - you might not scale the peak, but you'll see it from every side and get plenty of excercise and camping in...

[JamesT]

I enjoyed reading about your trip -- thanks. Yeah, I pretty much knew the answer to this one, but it is tempting nonetheless. I'll probably find another climb or hike in the area. Thanks again

[billcoe]

I won't shoot you down dude, I think you nailed that answer. I've climbed it every month of the year at least once, and even on the S. Side - some of those rocks are big and really moving fast. I was about as close as I've ever come to biting the big one right there in the summer. Probably late August. I use to just go up there and hang out at odd times or to seek solice and quite. Maybe bag a summit, but usually camp out by Illumination and hang. I was standing on the west side of Crater rock and something LOUD whizzed right by. I turned downhill and caught a glimpse of a head sized rock which had to have rolled off the summit area not crater rock that just missed my head by a small bit. It made a sound like a loose rock that whizzes by in Yosemite on a long cliff climb. It was just bouncing off the snow and rolling full speed, despite the time of year or expected softness that the snow should have been.

 

You'd most likely be fine, especially if the weather is settled, but the rock hazards are real.

[ivan]

i climbed hood once in october and it was somethign like 10 degree out - weren't no falling rocks that day!

[eldiente]

I went up the N.Side of Hood in October last year on cold clear day and found no falling rock, a bit of smear ice was "in" but other than that it was easy walking. Also note that some years there is a bit of snow on October to help you out.

 

 

[prussik1]

Other options not far from Hood are Mt. Washington, Mt. St. Helens, South Sister, etc..