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chum

[TR] Slesse - NE Buttress 8/14/2008

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Then you are threatened not only by the very same pocket glacier, you are in the firing line of the north glacier as well.

 

Huh? We came no where near the pocket glacier doing the original start.

 

Yeah the north glacier does dump stuff but as I said you are in the firing line for a couple of minutes. How long were on the pocket glacier?

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Then you are threatened not only by the very same pocket glacier, you are in the firing line of the north glacier as well.

 

Huh? We came no where near the pocket glacier doing the original start.

 

Yeah the north glacier does dump stuff but as I said you are in the firing line for a couple of minutes. How long were on the pocket glacier?

 

When the pocket glacier goes the debris funnels down and goes right across the left side of the approach to the direct start. If you approach from the right you're under the north glacier.

 

I've done the direct twice, the 2nd time the approach got bombed by the pocket glacier after we were 3 pitches up. Don't kid yourself, either approach is threatened.

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Okay, I can see what you are saying. I guess while watching the pocket debris dump it went more to the left. It just seems that the direct is less of gauntlet when the pocket is still hanging.

 

Here is what we climbed to by pass the magic carpet. We came in from left.

 

106245962_fd42dc.jpg

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Nice pic.

 

I agree about the direct, both times on it, never saw any moss, a few small trees but pretty good climbing.

 

The debris goes right down the upper wet streaks in your pic. Maybe since you're so far below the pocket glacier on the direct you'd have more warning/time to get out of the way if you heard it coming.

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Then you are threatened not only by the very same pocket glacier, you are in the firing line of the north glacier as well.

 

Huh? We came no where near the pocket glacier doing the original start.

 

Yeah the north glacier does dump stuff but as I said you are in the firing line for a couple of minutes. How long were on the pocket glacier?

 

We were in the firing line of ice that was pretty unlikely to slide (thre are still a couple chunks on the slab that could go) for about 45 seconds. then we angled up and left to the ledges.

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