Clarence Posted August 9, 2008 Posted August 9, 2008 Trip: The Tooth - South Face Date: 8/8/2008 Trip Report: After a few trad leads in Leavenworth and Index, I decided it was time to actually get out and lead a route in the mountains. So I headed out to the Tooth this morning with Travis. We made it up to the base in in 1 hour 45 mins. We climbed it in 3 pitches. p--low 5th. p2--4th class. p3--the catwalk, low 5th. There were only two other parties of two on the route (one in front, one behind), which seems ok for a climb like the tooth. Down in 3 30m raps and back to the car in 1 hour 30 mins. Gear Notes: Brought a set of nuts and BD cams 0.5-2. Just runners for slinging horns and nuts would do though. Approach Notes: Snow from Source lake to the pass. Quote
Bug Posted August 17, 2008 Posted August 17, 2008 Das Toof revisited. A newbie and I went up the tooth yesterday in scorthing heat. He led the second pitch and we baked on the summit for awhile. Then we downclimbed the north ridge with one rappell near the bottom. From there, we dropped to a small pond at the base of a small snowfield and layed in the scummy water for half an hour. By then the temp was 92. We hung out until 5 and the temp dropped to 77 so we went around Hemlock(?) pk and hiked up Bryant. We had hoped to downclimb the ridge but it was a little too steep so we got down on rap slings in four 30m rappels traversing north as we descended. That put us right below the pass over to Source basin. We got to a high bench with water after dark and bivied. My knee was still sore in the AM so we bailed. Found a purple 5.10 climbing shoe at the trailhead. I brought it home figuring someone here would claim it. PM me. Quote
Jamie Posted April 23, 2009 Posted April 23, 2009 Personally, I would use a 5.4 shoe maximum for this route. I'll look for someone climbing with one shoe when I'm there next. Quote
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