chucK Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 Basic jamming skills will work but if you don't have those and you're stuck and clogging up the route, just yard on the damn gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 There is a gear anchor just below the boulder. In a rescue situation one should not worry about leaving gear behind. If someone put bolts in on such an old line, someone else would just pull them out. The last thing we need in the Icicle is another bolt war. Jason Well said. I agree entirely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwebster Posted August 24, 2009 Author Share Posted August 24, 2009 We did cocaine crack this weekend. I may post a trip report later but for now I have some breaking news. There is now a bomber anchor at the top of r and d. It's pictured below. No longer do you have to brace your feet on the boulder in the downward sloping sand pile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Is that cam fixed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 the cam looks bomber but you need to unclip it from your gear sling and clip it into your harness or it's not going to hold jack-crap. NO on the bolts. Trad route on trad crag, you don't want to teach newbys that there's going to be bolts everywhere they "need" them. Un-tieing and blowing a whistle? A. Darwin candidate B. Shouldn't be trad climbing in the first place, not enough common sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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