R&D newbie close call, anchors needed?

[chucK]

Basic jamming skills will work but if you don't have those and you're stuck and clogging up the route, just yard on the damn gear.

[chris]

There is a gear anchor just below the boulder. In a rescue situation one should not worry about leaving gear behind.

 

If someone put bolts in on such an old line, someone else would just pull them out. The last thing we need in the Icicle is another bolt war.

 

Jason

Well said. I agree entirely.

[markwebster]

We did cocaine crack this weekend. I may post a trip report later but for now I have some breaking news. There is now a bomber anchor at the top of r and d. It's pictured below. No longer do you have to brace your feet on the boulder in the downward sloping sand pile.

 

[sobo]

Is that cam fixed?

[Buckaroo]

the cam looks bomber but you need to unclip it from your gear sling and clip it into your harness or it's not going to hold jack-crap.

 

NO on the bolts. Trad route on trad crag, you don't want to teach newbys that there's going to be bolts everywhere they "need" them.

 

Un-tieing and blowing a whistle?

 

A. Darwin candidate

B. Shouldn't be trad climbing in the first place, not enough common sense.