Bolt Replacing- Icicle

[akhalteke]

Thanks for the clarification. It's been a while. I don't plan to add any bolts to existing routes... just replace the nasty ones.

 

3/8" is solid enough. 1/2" is overkill?

 

 

No such thing as "overkill" in climbing.

 

 

No such thing as overkill??? 13mm rope, steel gear, OSHA approved harnesses . . . . all sound like overkill for recreational climbing to me.

 

 

Who uses 13mm ropes? Who uses steel biners or OSHA approved harnesses to rock climb?

 

That's the point numbnutz

[shaoleung]

Armed with better jargon, more suggestions and renewed energy I think it is safe to say the original poll is dumb. So... I'd like to post a new poll slightly reworded...

 

New Poll on Rebolting

Edited August 3, 2008 by shaoleung

[shaoleung]

This is what I use:

 

Hilti KB3 bolts at MEC

 

There are many other ones that can work.

 

Note: you can find the same bolts at big box hardware stores, and might be tempted to get them as they are cheaper. I've been told that the more expensive ones are individually tested/checked and getting the hardware stores ones is more risky.

 

So the same bolt through Tacoma Screws is not up to scratch?

 

On paper the Hilti Sleeve Anchor 304 seems like a better bolt. I couldn't find a price, but other than that possible obstacle, is there any other reason why this wouldn't be a great alternative?

Edited August 5, 2008 by shaoleung

[SuperSparky]

Acme Construction Supply on 4th Ave S has good prices on boxes of 50 3/8 x 2.25" Powers SS "5-piece" bolts. About $170 including tax, last I checked. These should be good for Icicle granite. Make sure you test the rock with a hammer before plugging anything in; I've pulled old bolts out of some bad rock before.

 

-Eric

[billcoe]

Hilti Sleeve Anchor 304[/url] seems like a better bolt. I couldn't find a price, but other than that possible obstacle, is there any other reason why this wouldn't be a great alternative?

 

Your link doesn't go to the specs Shaolung (shear and tension). Traditionally, wedge anchors outperform sleeve anchors in both. You sait seems better, but can you find and post both test reports for us to peruse?

 

That's a good price for a Powers SS 5 piece Supersparky, $3.40 each, however, although it would work fine, it still seems pretty short at 2-1/4" long, can you not at least get the 3/8 x 3"? (BTW, most of the handdrilled steel 3/8 bolts when the transition to 3/8 from 1/4" was happening were 1-3/4 and 2-1/4 long and I've never heard of a failure of a single one of these, it's more for staying with what is common)

 

That would be THE bolt for the granite up there.

 

OK, edited to say if you click the link in the link then the link shows 600 kn and 1000 kn for the 3/8 sleeve anchors. That's probably the working load, not the ultimate load, and is unusual in that there is no length correlation (longer is stronger by a bit in each diameter). The factor between working ad ultimate is usually X4, but it is arbitrary and you would want to double check that. Sleeve anchors usually are a bit (not a huge bit) weaker than wedge anchors, yet are easier to install and are known to not spin like wedge anchors can do.

Edited August 14, 2008 by billcoe

[shaoleung]

So when I'm "done" researching all this, do I get an engineering degree from somewhere?

 

I have been in contact with a few people at the ASCA and one of them offered to send me some Powers/Rawl 5-piece bolts. He suggested these as they are a common standard and removal is pretty straight forward.

 

He didn't say how long they were, but given our discussions, I am sure they're 3"+.

 

The Hilti Center in South Seattle carries plenty of beautiful SS KB3s, but a box of 50 3/8"x 3-3/4" (316) is over $250. I've been told 304 is fine for Leavenworth, but I didn't check those prices.

 

Billcoe: I am trying to put together a comparative spec sheet of all the bolts I am researching. I'll post it when I have it. Right now I just have Hilti and Powers bolts on there. I didn't include Petzl or Fixe since I think there is no question there. Any others you think I should check while I'm at it?

 

Thanks!