Pigeon Spire Beta Request

[spotly]

What might a 5.7-5.8 trad leader who plans on pitching it out or running-belay want for a rack for the west ridge of Pigeon Spire - cam sizes, nuts, ?..? It sucks, but I only get a full day in there. Any other short climbs at 5.8 or below that we might be able to get in on the same day or on approach day? I suppose we could hit Bugaboo Spire and see how far we get before turnaround time.

 

Thanks

[G-spotter]

The Kain Route is mostly scrambling with 3 pitches of roped climbing; doing both in a day is feasible.

[Winter]

You'll be fine with a set of nuts and a few cams to 2 inches for the West Ridge - double check that if you have the guide book, but that's what I remember - a few double length slings to boot.

 

You're best bet would be to climb the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire, rap the Kain Route, then go over and climb the West Ridge at the end of the day. Otherwise, I would probably recommend that Kraus-McCarthy on Snowpatch (also a rap descent so you may meet parties on the way down) or there is another fairly easy climb from near the col up Snowpatch, which I now forget the name of. I think the Kain Route kind of sucks.

 

Or you could climb the West Ridge and then climb Lion's Way on the way back to Applebee in the afternoon - that would be a fun day out as well. Or maybe the ridge on Eastpost Spire. All good moderate options.

[Lisa_D]

I'm looking into Bugaboo routes too since I'm hoping to go there later in Aug. Pigeon Spire could probably be done on approach day if you started early, since it is really short. I'm in the 5.8 trad leading range too, and I'm planning to solo & simul it - don't know specifics for the rack, sorry. There are other possible short outings for approach day, like scrambling East Post spire. The Kain route on Bugaboo spire is a 5.6 with lots of scrambling (?) and it's also the descent route off the mtn, which would make it easy to turn around if you ran out of time. You could try that for your main objective. Or on your full day just go for the NE Ridge of Bugaboo and be prepared for a long outing.

[spotly]

Thanks for the beta. One last question, is the road doable with a low clearance car (a Toyota Yaris)?

[counterfeitfake]

Yes, if you take it easy in places.

[tanstaafl]

When I went in there the first time there was a mini Cooper in the parking lot, completely engulfed in chicken wire. You'll be fine.

[mattp]

I think you'd be doing pretty well to climb anything else in combination with the NE Ridge of Bugaboo in a single day. The route is not huge, but it is long and the descent complex enough that most parties find it a full outing.

 

The standard route on Snowpatch is an excellent climb. Most people will not like the McCarthy route because of the squeeze chimney. Surf's UP is a more popular route these days.

[Ade]

Pictures of a recent trip with covers some of the routes mentioned; Kain & Pigeon.

 

http://www.ademiller.com/climbing/gallery/bc/bugaboos_2008/index.htm

 

Of approach/rest days I'd look at routes on the Crescent Spires. Remember weather in the Bugs can turn very bad late afternoon, thunder storms etc so starting up the climbing late isn't that advisable.

 

We did the McCarthy route on Snowpatch. It's fine, very low commitment as there are bolt anchors for raps.