RuMR Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 we were tanked when we got to astroledge...i dropped our water accidentally...i suck...my buddy still gives me shit about it... Haven't managed to get back to squamish since...its been 3 years... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottPick Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 Nice climb and photos to boot!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
susan Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 I love borderline, climbed it for the second time on Saturday and that offwidth, thanks for the bolts (3)! I jammed it both times now im told if I want it to feel 10a I should lieback it..hahaha. Wish you would have put a bolted station on top though, quite cramped quarters. ******************** We did not expect people to make two pitches out of the off-width pitch. We put it up as one 55 m pitch, something for everyone to hate, off-width and slab. But I must confess the rope drag on the upper slab moves can be disconcerting when done as one pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperSparky Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 What Susan said on Borderline p5, minus a few meters. Use a very short draw (or even a single locking biner) on the 1st bolt of the OW, to reduce drag. FYI, that particular OW would have been very hard to protect on trad gear. At the time I bolted it, the only commercially available gear it would take was a very shaky #4 Big Bro, which I used for aid as I drilled. I never found a placement I would have trusted in a fall. Also -- is that big scary dead tree still there, halfway up pitch 5? That was the one trundle we never quite managed. -Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 Ya I harvested a sling off it the other day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamsbud Posted August 19, 2008 Share Posted August 19, 2008 That looks awesome!! Can't wait to try it. BTW were you guys working that last summer when someone above started dropping rocks off the top? Not me but someone I knew....he was gonna base jump go figure.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinner Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 same with pipeline...two big cams only...a #6 friend, pushed until tipped, then #9 VG and a qd for the bolt... What's a #9 VG?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 Valley Giant... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinner Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Epic route with great variety! That little stub in the crack on the 4th pitch is now far from confidence inspiring, at least for me. I didn't even consider putting a sling on it. It doesn't look nearly as good as in your photo and I shuddered as I stood on it. Whoever made the comments: these guys did not bolt it into submission! I found the bolts to be quite judicious and commendable. I wish the first two pitches and particularly the second pitch weren't so moist but such is life at Squamish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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