Take away their powerdrill?

[Edlinger]

If you could be a fairy godmother and take away the powerdrill of any one resident of the cascades, who would it be?

 

Were talking bolting squeeze jobed, garbage routing, bolting alpine routing, bolting with clips every 24" inches, or bolting repetitive vantage style routes, or just putting in 20+ routes per year where many of them suck.

As a longtime lurker, I've noticed that some of the longest threads on this site have been about a limited number of highly controversial bolted climbs. Many by the same perpetrators. Or just thumb through some of newer guidebooks after a day of climbing some routes that you thought sucked. Some folks are opening 3-4 routes in a single two day weekend!

-Not a slanderous thread, just a retrospective thread that may yield some higher quality sport routes. Allez!

[JosephH]

You shouldn't think that way - it's all good...

[TrogdortheBurninator]

this seems like a positive thread.

[Edlinger]

I guess I didn't mean for the thread to really name names but instead to be more retrospective.

 

Thumb through the backs of some of the newer guidebooks and you'll notice that 98% of our newish sport routes are put up by 2% of the community. That is fine and many of the routes are amazing classics, but a few folk's names have in the course of conversation with others consistenly get mentioned as having literally gone apeshit with a powerdrill and put in tons of routes that many are poorly authored. I'm just saying, slow down, we don't need to throw a three bolt rig on every piece of eastern washington basalt or north bend stone.

[pink]

lets do a march at the capital

[olyclimber]

if he/she float, then he/she is definitely a witch. or a duck.

[pink]

I guess I didn't mean for the thread to really name names but instead to be more retrospective.

 

Thumb through the backs of some of the newer guidebooks and you'll notice that 98% of our newish sport routes are put up by 2% of the community. That is fine and many of the routes are amazing classics, but a few folk's names have in the course of conversation with others consistenly get mentioned as having literally gone apeshit with a powerdrill and put in tons of routes that many are poorly authored. I'm just saying, slow down, we don't need to throw a three bolt rig on every piece of eastern washington basalt or north bend stone.

 

it's called manifest destiny. i'm with you though.

[Edlinger]

I wanted to put this in the section marked "spray", but under the spray title on the main forum page it says "everything not about climbing".

[pink]

it will be in spray tomorrow

[counterfeitfake]

Some folks are opening 3-4 routes in a single two day weekend!

 

I am skeptical about this until you give some examples.

[olyclimber]

i'd say that the issue is better handled via a different medium, or at least the tactic should be different (i.e. don't have a slanderfest). i hear you that some people might be putting up crappy routes, but its usually better to just directly confront them about it in a constructive manner rather than forming a witch hunting party via the internet.

 

better to have a discussion here about what exactly makes up a great route, and how can we get more route setters to ascribe to those ideals.

 

[Edlinger]

I agree with you Porter.

==========================================================

You can put this in spray if you want.

[pink]

i'd say that the issue is better handled via a different medium, or at least the tactic should be different (i.e. don't have a slanderfest). i hear you that some people might be putting up crappy routes, but its usually better to just directly confront them about it in a constructive manner rather than forming a witch hunting party via the internet.

 

better to have a discussion here about what exactly makes up a great route, and how can we get more route setters to ascribe to those ideals.

 

YtA0CXp0DRQ

Edited June 18, 2008 by pink

[olyclimber]

this is about climbing. the question is...who here can deliver a dissertation about what constitutes the perfect route.

 

for each:

 

Sport

Trad

Face

etc.

 

of course there is no ideal, but there should be some describable aspect about what makes a good route. perhaps the best vehicle for expressing this is haiku.

[pink]

porter, are you an art fag?

[JosephH]

No, the question was not about trad climbing at all or about 'perfect' routes of any variety. It was about the fact that about twelve years ago battery technology advanced to a price point where now pretty much anyone one can go outside and do a piss-poor job spraying with it.

 

The OP's conjecture was that a lot of drilled 'routes' go in that, top-to-bottom, yield about the same value and gratification as your average thread here in Spray.

[pink]

sportburbia, get it before someone else does and maybe i'll get my name in a book

[olyclimber]

porter, are you an art fag?

what is your obsession with homosexuality? oh! nevermind...won't ask, don't tell.

 

i believe in the power of haiku.

[Dechristo]

sportburbia, get it before someone else does and maybe i'll get my name in a book

 

[pink]

 

 

how do you fell about the power of the knagaru?

[Dechristo]

my wife's teachings are sought by many seekers of The Way. She is The KnagGuru

[pink]

 

i'm to big of a pussy to get get married. :lmao:

[minx]

i would like a powerdrill

[pink]

you mean powerdrilled?

[Dechristo]

battery powered