knightrain Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 Friends of YOSAR has just posted a first-hand account and analysis of the chain of events that led to a climber's serious injury after being lowered off the end of the top-rope at Church Bowl in Yosemite, October 2007. http://friendsofyosar.org/rescues/missions/10-12-07_ChurchBowl.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 damn good partner to run underneath a falling climber and break his fall with your body Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Argus Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 Seems like the least he could do after dropping his partner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 I nailed my belayer on a fall a while ago. I now call him "crashpad" and buy him pints whenever he asks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmuja Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 Sheeite, this one had so much dumb written all over it that I found myself getting more and more pissed just reading as I knew what was coming! Not that I don't error on occasion, but getting a partner like this (or these) is probly what scares me the most about climbing. Glad it ended relatively well though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 An exercise I highly recommend for anyone involved in climbing/mountaineering/skiing but ESPECIALLY for those new to the sports is to get the last 15 yrs of Accidents in North American Mountaineering from the library, sit down SOBER, and read them in ONE SITTING. The common and repeated mistakes, patterns, missed warning signs etc. will become very clear. The non-issue safety police crises that people agonize over on the interweb should similarly become clear by their non-prominence in reports of actual accident causes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figger_Eight Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 Jeebus - you coulda seen that one coming from a mile away. Tough lesson learned I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 That's a good recommendation Fern. It's been awhile since I've perused ANAM, but the one that stood out for me as most common, at least in the Northwest, was "slip on snow, failure to arrest." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Crunch Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 I typically don't leave the ground unless my belayer is tied to the rope. A stopper knot is OK too, but as this accident demonstrates the stopper knot is not foolproof. In some ways, this is not a a top rope accident. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 That's a good recommendation Fern. It's been awhile since I've perused ANAM, but the one that stood out for me as most common, at least in the Northwest, was "slip on snow, failure to arrest." I look forward to my new issue of ANAM like a kid looks forward to a visit from Santa Claus. I read it a few times, then put it aside. Then I pick up a few of my back issues and re-read them. It seems like there's always at least an issue or two floating around in my truck. Makes for great lunchtime reading, being as how they're sorta like a book of short stories... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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