Doug's Direct on J-berg?

[Seago_1]

Does any one have any beta on the Doug's Direct descent on J-Berg or know where i can get some beta? I have heard it is better than the east ridge; however, i know very little about it.

Also has anybody be up into Boston Basin? I am heading up there on the 24th and was just wandering what the conditions were like.

 

Thanks,

JS

[Alex]

Dougs direct is an alternate *approach/descent* to the base of the East Ridge on Jberg, not an alternate to the route itself. It lets you climb the East Ridge without having to deal with the CJ Coulouir or the hideous yuckness of the traverse from Gunsight notch. Time from parkinglot to base of the East Ridge route is about 4.5 hours, if you can move at good speed.

 

This trip report has some info, and if you do a "Search" on this site, you'll also find plenty.

 

http://www.mountainwerks.org/alexk/climb/TRJBurg04.htm

 

[kurthicks]

Go down the east ridge. From the CJ Col, look for this feature. Follow the heather ramp that goes almost all the way to the top (~1500' gain), then descent solid rock down the backside to the glacier, down the Cascade (?) Arm, and back to the pass. easy and safe, once you're off the Ridge.

 

[ivan]

me n' josh's trip report of climbing the ne butt and descending the doug direct found here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=484182

it contains stellar writing and hustler-magazine quality phots of the route and even a well annotated image of doug's direct