Seago_1 Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 Does any one have any beta on the Doug's Direct descent on J-Berg or know where i can get some beta? I have heard it is better than the east ridge; however, i know very little about it. Also has anybody be up into Boston Basin? I am heading up there on the 24th and was just wandering what the conditions were like. Thanks, JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 Dougs direct is an alternate *approach/descent* to the base of the East Ridge on Jberg, not an alternate to the route itself. It lets you climb the East Ridge without having to deal with the CJ Coulouir or the hideous yuckness of the traverse from Gunsight notch. Time from parkinglot to base of the East Ridge route is about 4.5 hours, if you can move at good speed. This trip report has some info, and if you do a "Search" on this site, you'll also find plenty. http://www.mountainwerks.org/alexk/climb/TRJBurg04.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 Go down the east ridge. From the CJ Col, look for this feature. Follow the heather ramp that goes almost all the way to the top (~1500' gain), then descent solid rock down the backside to the glacier, down the Cascade (?) Arm, and back to the pass. easy and safe, once you're off the Ridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 me n' josh's trip report of climbing the ne butt and descending the doug direct found here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=484182 it contains stellar writing and hustler-magazine quality phots of the route and even a well annotated image of doug's direct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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