ski mountaineering

[sheusche]

I heard that in europe ski mountaineers tie knots every 6 ft in their rope for glacier travel. Does anyone know what purpose the knots serve?

[builder206]

Stops a fall into a crevasse. Sounds stupid and useless, doesn't it? I saw an Army training film long ago in which it was demonstrated. It works. As the rope digs into the crevasse lip, eventually one of the knots will grab.

[Bug]

 

They would be a pain in the butt during extraction.

 

No thanks.

Edited June 5, 2008 by Bug

[builder206]

My understanding is that it is a solo technique. You trail about 30' or 40' of knotted rope behind you.

 

Obviously you still have a hell of a problem to solve, but at least you are hanging from a rope not far from the lip rather than busted to pieces down at the bottom...all alone.

[korup]

Yup, it might work, and then what? Then you are totally hosed for any type of hauling, jugging, etc etc, which means you'd need to carry a second rope.

 

I can imagine some variant of a Kiwi coil with knots on the inside, but you'd need to lower the free end down anyway, making a total nightmare of a rope system.

[Bug]

So what is on the end of the rope to make it dig in?

[jrmycarr]

It helps facilitate a catch with a two man team while traveling on glaciers. I do believe you would carry a shorter rope to extract. Never done it but I think the idea is to help catch a fall in a two man team.

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Bear Gryllis uses it when he's solo on a glacier, it must be the ticket! He drags his pack at the end of the rope to help weight it.

 

Everything I know I learned on the Discovery Channel.