chucK Posted May 29, 2008 Posted May 29, 2008 ....and what's gonna be drippy this weekend. Hopefully it won't rain. Is the Squaw slow or quick to dry? Will it be drippy? How about Angel's Crest and Borderline? Octopus's Garden? I know Rock On is usually slow to dry. How about The Snake, Squish Butt, UE? Other words of wisdom regarding climbs 10 and under? Quote
fern Posted May 29, 2008 Posted May 29, 2008 it's been pretty dry overall. might be some wet here and there in the usual places, but mostly climbable. you should go do sunblessed or other solarium thingy ... enlightened. Quote
bstach Posted May 29, 2008 Posted May 29, 2008 I would expect the crux pitch of Rock On will be wet...that always takes a looong time to dry...otherwise should be good. You should be able to see if climbs on the Apron (Snake, Diedre etc.) are dry by looking up from the road. Penny Lane and Burgers and Fries are quick drying, but often busy for this reason. Quote
jmace Posted May 29, 2008 Posted May 29, 2008 Hopefully it won't rain. It wont Is the Squaw slow or quick to dry? Will it be drippy? Will be fine except for right wing and maybe great game How about Angel's Crest and Borderline oh such an awesome link up, dry Octopus's Garden? Busy and dry How about The Snake, Squish Butt, UE? Dry,Dry, probably seeping Other words of wisdom regarding climbs 10 and under? Fern offered a nice suggestion that you should probably go do..just take care in getting there as its easy to get lost Bulletheads are a hoot..and if you follow Stairway to Heaven to bellygood you get great views and no crowds, skip Women in comfortable shoes and do Fungus the Bogey Man to Xenolith dance or Slot Machine then Xenolith Have fun Quote
fern Posted May 30, 2008 Posted May 30, 2008 I hope to see you this w/e Chucky I will keep an eye out for a fez. Quote
mountainmatt Posted May 30, 2008 Posted May 30, 2008 As of last weekend... The right side of the Squaw was wet and pretty dirty. Snake was seeping. UE has 3 wet pitches (one is the 5.7 slab) Most of the Smoke Bluffs are dry as well as the right side of the Apron. Quote
jmace Posted May 30, 2008 Posted May 30, 2008 What did you climb ont he squaw that was dirty..jungle warfare ? Snake...is the last one to dry but I did see quite few parties on it last weekend Did you have any chances to scope Upper Echelon..was thinking about tacking that on to another route tomorrow Quote
mountainmatt Posted May 30, 2008 Posted May 30, 2008 Yes, Jungle Warfare was pretty dirty. I did clean a lot of the cracks out with my nut tool, so maybe its a little better now? Another party was getting off of a route that was further to the left and they reported some dirty and wet conditions as well. My guess is that its just early season and it will clean up nicely with a few more ascents. There were several parties on Snake, but the 5.9 traverse is a bit harder right now since its wet. The forecast made it look like it rained up there some this last week, so I would assume that it is still a bit wet. I did not see Up Esc, but its on the list for the season for sure. The nice thing about that area is you can combine parts of UE and Up Esc if you want. Let me know how Up Esc is Quote
jmace Posted May 30, 2008 Posted May 30, 2008 whats the crux alternative ? Jungle warfare does have some leaf/needle problems early season will let you know about Upper Echelon Quote
hafilax Posted May 30, 2008 Posted May 30, 2008 I think there's a vague description in McLane's guidebook. From the belay before the seeping traverse you can go right at some point and then straight up the slab or maybe some kind of fault at 10a. I vaguely remember looking at it and thinking it looked doable; runout maybe. It's been a while since I was on that route. It may not even exist and I could be making it all up. Quote
G-spotter Posted May 30, 2008 Posted May 30, 2008 It may not even exist and I could be making it all up. Ya cause that's the 10c pitch of Climbers Must Be Crazy to the right. Quote
jmace Posted May 30, 2008 Posted May 30, 2008 how about the original finish of climbers must be crazy or snake straight up from the belay after the traverse ever do that ? Quote
G-spotter Posted May 30, 2008 Posted May 30, 2008 how about the original finish of climbers must be crazy or snake straight up from the belay after the traverse ever do that ? you mean the 10a, A0 corner out left? Quote
jmace Posted May 30, 2008 Posted May 30, 2008 Ya I think it goes left then straight up and I do remember an A0 part..was that the original finish to snake ? looks harder than 10a Quote
chucK Posted May 30, 2008 Author Posted May 30, 2008 Now what's the weather prognosis? One site says 60% of showers on Sunday Quote
jmace Posted May 31, 2008 Posted May 31, 2008 Heres the deal, there is a weak disturbance traversing through washington and sending some stuff up our way, however its coming from the east so it has to come over the coast hills and rain on the windward side.. its on the fence, one model is going with nothing while another model is hinting at bringing in more moisture over the coast hills then maybe possible, considering there is not much moisture available. So the thinking is it would dry out before making its way over the hills.. have to put a chance in, 40% would be a good number 60% seems high. I wouldnt cancel the trip personally and next week looks much more spring like, wet. Maybe get the long routes done tomorrow and do some cragging or bullet heads on Sunday. Good luck man!! Quote
jmace Posted May 31, 2008 Posted May 31, 2008 heres the discussion out of WA BOTH THE GFS AND THE EURO DRAG THE UPPER LOW RIGHT ACROSS WASHINGTON SUNDAY...BUT AS HAS BEEN THE CASE ALL ALONG...WITH NO REAL PCPN ASSOCIATED BEYOND SHOWERS IN THE MOUNTAINS (image). HAVE KEPT THIS IDEA GOING ALONG WITH MORE CLOUDS AND LOWER TEMPS. A SHORT WAVE SURFACE RIDGE SHOULD MAKE THINGS MOSTLY SUNNY AND WARMER ON MONDAY (image). BURKE Canadians are similar except they upped the pop Quote
G-spotter Posted May 31, 2008 Posted May 31, 2008 (edited) Ya I think it goes left then straight up and I do remember an A0 part..was that the original finish to snake ? looks harder than 10a no it's the last pitch of climbers must be crazy Edited May 31, 2008 by G-spotter Quote
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