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Squamish - what's gonna be dry...


chucK

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....and what's gonna be drippy this weekend.

 

Hopefully it won't rain.

 

Is the Squaw slow or quick to dry? Will it be drippy?

 

How about Angel's Crest and Borderline?

 

Octopus's Garden?

 

I know Rock On is usually slow to dry.

 

How about The Snake, Squish Butt, UE?

 

Other words of wisdom regarding climbs 10 and under?

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I would expect the crux pitch of Rock On will be wet...that always takes a looong time to dry...otherwise should be good. You should be able to see if climbs on the Apron (Snake, Diedre etc.) are dry by looking up from the road.

 

Penny Lane and Burgers and Fries are quick drying, but often busy for this reason.

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Hopefully it won't rain.

 

It wont

 

Is the Squaw slow or quick to dry? Will it be drippy?

 

Will be fine except for right wing and maybe great game

 

How about Angel's Crest and Borderline

 

oh such an awesome link up, dry

 

Octopus's Garden?

 

Busy and dry

 

How about The Snake, Squish Butt, UE?

 

Dry,Dry, probably seeping

 

Other words of wisdom regarding climbs 10 and under?

 

Fern offered a nice suggestion that you should probably go do..just take care in getting there as its easy to get lost

 

Bulletheads are a hoot..and if you follow Stairway to Heaven to bellygood you get great views and no crowds, skip Women in comfortable shoes and do Fungus the Bogey Man to Xenolith dance or Slot Machine then Xenolith

 

Have fun

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What did you climb ont he squaw that was dirty..jungle warfare ?

 

Snake...is the last one to dry but I did see quite few parties on it last weekend

 

Did you have any chances to scope Upper Echelon..was thinking about tacking that on to another route tomorrow

 

 

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Yes, Jungle Warfare was pretty dirty. I did clean a lot of the cracks out with my nut tool, so maybe its a little better now? Another party was getting off of a route that was further to the left and they reported some dirty and wet conditions as well. My guess is that its just early season and it will clean up nicely with a few more ascents.

 

There were several parties on Snake, but the 5.9 traverse is a bit harder right now since its wet. The forecast made it look like it rained up there some this last week, so I would assume that it is still a bit wet.

 

I did not see Up Esc, but its on the list for the season for sure. The nice thing about that area is you can combine parts of UE and Up Esc if you want. Let me know how Up Esc is :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I think there's a vague description in McLane's guidebook. From the belay before the seeping traverse you can go right at some point and then straight up the slab or maybe some kind of fault at 10a. I vaguely remember looking at it and thinking it looked doable; runout maybe. It's been a while since I was on that route.

 

It may not even exist and I could be making it all up.

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Heres the deal, there is a weak disturbance traversing through washington and sending some stuff up our way, however its coming from the east so it has to come over the coast hills and rain on the windward side..

 

its on the fence, one model is going with nothing while another model is hinting at bringing in more moisture over the coast hills then maybe possible, considering there is not much moisture available. So the thinking is it would dry out before making its way over the hills..

 

have to put a chance in, 40% would be a good number 60% seems high. I wouldnt cancel the trip personally and next week looks much more spring like, wet. Maybe get the long routes done tomorrow and do some cragging or bullet heads on Sunday.

 

Good luck man!!

 

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heres the discussion out of WA

 

BOTH THE GFS AND THE EURO DRAG THE UPPER LOW RIGHT ACROSS WASHINGTON

SUNDAY...BUT AS HAS BEEN THE CASE ALL ALONG...WITH NO REAL PCPN

ASSOCIATED BEYOND SHOWERS IN THE MOUNTAINS (image). HAVE KEPT THIS

IDEA GOING ALONG WITH MORE CLOUDS AND LOWER TEMPS. A SHORT WAVE

SURFACE RIDGE SHOULD MAKE THINGS MOSTLY SUNNY AND WARMER ON MONDAY

(image). BURKE

 

Canadians are similar except they upped the pop

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