Jim23 Posted May 15, 2008 Posted May 15, 2008 (edited) A group of us will be headed out to N. Cascades next month and we would be grateful for some advice re: an area where we can setup a base camp for the duration. 1. We're looking for good access to moderate outings for our less-experienced mountaineers and ideally some more challenging climbs for the veterans. Any suggestions? (Cascade Pass had come up, but w/the road being washed out...) 2. I understand there's a deep snowpack this year- is it such that skiis would still be necessary for approaches anywhere in mid-June? 3. If we arrive and poor weather is forecasted for much of our stay, can any of you recommend an alternative area w/drier weather as a contingency? Thanks for any info/advice you can share! 4) ah, also, can you recommend a good set of (paper) maps I can order online to facilitate planning? Edited May 15, 2008 by Jim23 Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted May 15, 2008 Posted May 15, 2008 Washington pass and rainy pass would provide more than 10 days of fun for climbers of all ability. Mazama is right there as a bad weather backup. Quote
max Posted May 15, 2008 Posted May 15, 2008 4) ah, also, can you recommend a good set of (paper) maps I can order online to facilitate planning? I'm a big fan of the gazetteres: Find them at most book stores in the western states or amazon . They are topo maps but at a much rougher scale. I think they generally fit four 7.5 minute quads on a 17"x12" page. Good for planning driving and trail approaches, but not so great for routes and such. they also give a great overview of the area(s) you'll be in. sound like it should be a fun trip! I'm jealous! dave Quote
Rad Posted May 15, 2008 Posted May 15, 2008 A little farther South: Icicle Creek. Plenty of rock climbing in the Icicle. Alpine routes in the Enchantments nearby. FYI, this area is thin on glacier travel compared to the North Cascades, in case that's a factor in your decision. Quote
fenderfour Posted May 15, 2008 Posted May 15, 2008 Boston Basin woudl also be excellent. THe road is washed out adding another 7 miles to the approach, but it's a really nice place to be. You would have it to yourselves too. Quote
Wastral Posted May 15, 2008 Posted May 15, 2008 White Rock Lakes. 1 VERY long day in via south cascade river/glacier. Otherwise it is 1.5in 3/4day out. Can go anywhere for 10 days and there is no where more beautiful except maybe the pickets and the enchantments. Dome Peak/Sinister/Gunsight/Spire + all the moderate peaklets from Spire to basecamp at White rock Lakes outlet. Or go North to Sentinel/Old Guard. Overnight at Le Conte Lake. Another 10 day moderate outing is based from Chiwawa River end at Trinity. Go up Buck mountain, from there go to Clark or take the high route over to Liberty Cap/Napequa Peak. From there go over to Fortress Chiwawa mountain. From there head to 7 Fingered Jack/Maude/Fernow Mt. Carne. At anytime if you have to bail. Just take the excellent valley trail system back to your car with a maximum of 1 mile road walk between Spider Meadow car parking lot and Trinity Parking lot. 10 days in June???? GOOD LUCK!!!!! You will need it. June weather usually sucks. You will also be camping on 100% snow at either of the places I described or just about anywhere in the Cascades. Brian Foote Quote
Wastral Posted May 15, 2008 Posted May 15, 2008 Maps, used to be able to get them free at topozone.com then the "jerks" at trail.com bought them and now want to CHARGE MONEY FOR THEM!!!! Both trips I talked about are detailed on map number 34 of the Washington Atlas & Gazetteer posted previously. USGS maps needed would me Holden(113)15 minute Green Trails Map for the Chiwawa traverse. Cascade Pass(80) for the Dome Peak/White Rocks Lakes area Any Ridge traverse will not have trails and will be completely snow covered at that elevation. A lower traverse that may have some bare ground would be the Alpine Lakes High Route. Look in Becky's Southern Cascades Climbing Book (Brown Cover) Routes For climbing the moderate peaks I described in previous post are in Becky's Green covered alpine guide from Steven's Pass to Rainy Pass. If you want really moderate stuff check out Chelan Crest which would be great in June. Don't need Skiis in June. All the trail heads will be snow free. There will be snow in the valleys. You WILL NEED CRAMPONS/Ice Axe for all of my routes. WIll need glacier rescue technique for Dome Peak Region. Rope for Dome Peak Region. A very short rope for the vertically challenged coming off of Fortress in the Chiwawa traverse. Brian Foote greentrailsmaps.com Brian Foote Quote
Jim23 Posted May 16, 2008 Author Posted May 16, 2008 Great- thanks Brian, et al. for the info. BTW what do you think is the probability of the park service getting the road open by June? Quote
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