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first ascent [TR] Behind Yak Peak - FA Royal Canadian Kilted Ya

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Trip: Behind Yak Peak - FA Royal Canadian Kilted Yaksmen WI3+ 90m


Date: 3/16/2008


Trip Report:

winter isn't over just yet


Don, Graham, Jesse and I got a hot tipoff from Chris Link of the Coquihalla avalanche crew that there was ice at the back of the Falls Lake basin behind Yak Peak. We skiied in and climbed a nice 2-pitch WI3+, fat blue pillar now called "Royal Canadian Kilted Yaksmen".


To the right of this route there is a broad curtain with lots of potential slabby ice lines - like a 80m high, 200m wide sheet of continuous blue and gray ice. Avy hazard from above.


There are also at least 3 separate 2-pitch nice looking mixed lines up corners and gullies choked with narrow veins of ice.


If you haven't worked off your winter ice stoke yet this would be a good place to go get some over the next few weeks.


It snowed on us all day. The spindrift was pretty ridiculous at times on our route, and the climb sort of felt like being stuck in the rinse cycle on a washing machine filled with powder snow. Pretty alpine ambiance.




Gear Notes:

A bunch of screws and draws.


Approach Notes:

Ski west from Falls Lake off Coquihalla Highway about 1km to find the north-facing ice on the south side of the valley.

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I've been thinking the opposite lately since I climbed in the Smoke Bluffs the last 2 Sundays ;)


It's that magical time of year where you could ski, climb ice, climb rock and mt bike all in the same weekend :D


I'll probably head up to Whistler this week given the new snow we'll be getting. :tup:

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HA awesome video


couple more pics if you like


Don approaches



Graham and actually all of us getting clobbered




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Did an exploratory hike up Fries Creek last weekend, which is on the "other" side of the Squamish River. Tons of ice on the north facing walls of Lapworth and connecting ridge to Conybeare, some avalanche threatened and some not.


(The objective wasn't to look for ice, but to investigate an old approach to the Tantalus range).


A bit of an approach hike but lots to climb:



Edited by Ponzini

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