Otto Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 Trip: Static Point - The Granite Jihad Date: 7/12/2007 Trip Report: Climb: Static Point - The Granite Jihad, 5.10a, 2p, FA Date of Climb: 07/12/2007 Trip Report: The previous week, when DavidW and I replaced some bolts on The Pillar, he'd noticed this line. It became the subject of our next visit, when he cruised it placing the bolts on lead. Afterwards, we rapped down Shock Treatment and replaced some more old steel. The Granite Jihad My cresting great grey granite jihad No quest to find a personal god But the pilgrimage was just the same A search for adventure could be one claim Otto on the third pitch of The Pillar route We’d come for work and perverse play High risk mechanics some might say We’d changed old gear for something new And always marveled for the view Dan relaxing at the Pillar belay But now an idea had worked its way That even an old dog could have its day Sweet granite previously viewed with dread Its melody somehow left unsaid David starting on the first pitch of the Jihad I strained and searched for a way to believe That the line of holds would not deceive But rather lead me up from there If only my heart would accept the dare Looking up the first pitch of the Jihad, toward the Great Flake and beyond For this I might need some credits accrued From Allah or Krishna or some bearded dude Who’d show me the way and make me the hold And spare me the pain of being so bold Crossing the Great Flake on the second pitch The new route starts from the top of The Pillar feature, and climbs two pitches before connecting with Lost Charms. The first pitch goes straight up a trough, passing five bolts to a double bolt belay. The second pitch passes a bolt and heads up to the overlap. It goes up past two bolts and some gear opportunites, crosses over the Great Flake, and to a double bolt belay on the Lost Charms direct finish. photography: Dan Dingle and Bill Enger, verse: David Whitelaw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheamclimber Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 are thos La sportiva Testarossas in the first pic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRep Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 are thos La sportiva Testarossas in the first pic? pretty sure they are mythos. Way to go guys, can't wait to go climb it this summer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 Is Shock Treatment all cleaned up? That one's been on my list. Gentlemen and scholars the lot of you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Shock Treatment received "the treatement" a few years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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