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[TR] Static Point - The Granite Jihad 7/12/2007


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Trip: Static Point - The Granite Jihad

 

Date: 7/12/2007

 

Trip Report:

 

Climb: Static Point - The Granite Jihad, 5.10a, 2p, FA

 

Date of Climb: 07/12/2007

 

Trip Report:

The previous week, when DavidW and I replaced some bolts on The Pillar, he'd noticed this line. It became the subject of our next visit, when he cruised it placing the bolts on lead. Afterwards, we rapped down Shock Treatment and replaced some more old steel.

 

 

The Granite Jihad

 

My cresting great grey granite jihad

No quest to find a personal god

But the pilgrimage was just the same

A search for adventure could be one claim

 

Otto on the third pitch of The Pillar route

01billpillarp3db2.jpg

 

We’d come for work and perverse play

High risk mechanics some might say

We’d changed old gear for something new

And always marveled for the view

 

Dan relaxing at the Pillar belay

02danpillartopyi3.jpg

 

But now an idea had worked its way

That even an old dog could have its day

Sweet granite previously viewed with dread

Its melody somehow left unsaid

 

David starting on the first pitch of the Jihad

03davejihadp1so2.jpg

 

I strained and searched for a way to believe

That the line of holds would not deceive

But rather lead me up from there

If only my heart would accept the dare

 

Looking up the first pitch of the Jihad, toward the Great Flake and beyond

04thegranitejihadfu9.jpg

 

For this I might need some credits accrued

From Allah or Krishna or some bearded dude

Who’d show me the way and make me the hold

And spare me the pain of being so bold

 

Crossing the Great Flake on the second pitch

05davejihadp2db5.jpg

 

The new route starts from the top of The Pillar feature, and climbs two pitches before connecting with Lost Charms.

The first pitch goes straight up a trough, passing five bolts to a double bolt belay.

The second pitch passes a bolt and heads up to the overlap. It goes up past two bolts and some gear opportunites, crosses over the Great Flake, and to a double bolt belay on the Lost Charms direct finish.

photography: Dan Dingle and Bill Enger, verse: David Whitelaw

 

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