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glassgowkiss

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From www.westcoastice.com

"White Blotter: Bruce Kay climbed on White Blotter with Brad White and Brent Phillips. Fat and solid."

And later: "Since it usually looks OK from the road and turns out to be the hardest WI5 on the planet, it's probably in 'tough' shape right now."

First of all I would like to clarify: if you do a first pitch, just call it that. Second of all, it's not WI5, most likely never was. First pitch deserves WI6 rating imo. Let's get away from 5.9 A2 mentality.

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hey glassy,

hope you're having a good winter.

actually, despite being responsible for the retention of the "5" in the 2nd edition of the guidebook, i kinda agree with u. i left it 'as is' cuz of the humour value, and i did say "every guidebook needs its sandbag, and this is it". conditions vary, of course, but when we climbed it (1st pitch only! took so frigging long we didn't have time for the 2nd) it was considerably harder than Shreddie (last year, which was probably in 'easy' condition). other people whose climbing abilities and opinions i greatly respect have had similar experiences. i have precious little experience on consensus Grade 6, but I'd say White Blotter falls solidly into the category. people 'out west' just seem to have a fear of dropping 'the six bomb' onto local routes, for fear of being seen as blow-harding and egotism. actually, plenty of Grade 6 around - backed off a cpl things this year that're in much harder shape than either the Blotter OR Shreddie!

cheers,

Edited by Don_Serl
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